Whether in film or fashion, the peplum has fascinated many artists for several years. Having reappeared on the runways in recent seasons, this ancient style is set to take the fashion world by storm in the coming months.
A style that fell out of favor in the 1980s (at least in cinema), the peplum regained its prestige in 2026. In fashion, this style—often characterized by a simple peplum detail at the waist—made a comeback on the runways for the Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter 2026 seasons.
The release of Christopher Nolan’s *The Odyssey and the outfits worn by the film’s actresses at the premieres have only reinforced this trend, which is likely to once again take over city streets.
Fashion and cinema
As Latin scholar, film historian, and peplum specialist Claude Aziza explained in a 2007 interview with France Culture, this term first appeared in France (“and only in France”) in the 1960s thanks to figures such as Bertrand Tavernier. This term also originated from Riccardo Freda’s film, *The Giant of Thessaly*, to describe this cinematic genre.
Before cinema, the word “peplum” has its roots in ancient Greece and in fashion. At the time, the “péplos” referred to a women’s garment. According to the Littré, a 19th-century dictionary of the French language, the “péplum” (or “péplon”) is nothing other than a “large, wide garment with many folds, made of the finest and lightest fabric, usually with rich embroidery; it was worn over other garments and was strictly reserved for women.”
A definition followed to the letter by modern designers. In October 2025, during Fashion Week showcasing the Spring/Summer 2026 collections, the peplum took center stage on the runways of the biggest names in luxury.
Summer and winter
In the Dries Van Noten collection, it adorned a gray strappy top while adding character to a short-sleeved jacket embellished with large buttons. At Stella McCartney, the antique style made its way into the office by serving as the basis for a suit. Others have made it their trademark, such as Ashlynn Park, the designer behind the New York label Ashlyn.
Now that summer is over, the peplum will continue to grace the runway in the coming months, as it was spotted on the Fall/Winter 2026 runways. At Dior, for example, Jonathan Anderson reimagined the famous “Bar” jacket, giving it a sculptural look and pairing it with a miniskirt. The ensemble is crafted from a fabric with a fluffy texture.
At Balenciaga, Pierpaolo Piccioli chose to highlight the iconic draping of ancient figures by presenting several dresses crafted in deep, dark hues. Some silhouettes are even embellished with trains for a more theatrical effect.
A never-ending cycle
While draping, peplum hems, and the fluidity of the peplum are returning to the forefront in 2026, this style has always captivated the fashion industry. The 2010s were also particularly fond of it. Indeed, how could we forget Chanel’s 2017–2018 Cruise Collection designed by Karl Lagerfeld?
At the time, the models walked the runway in the Grand Palais, which had been transformed into a ruined Greek temple. Laurel leaves, flowing fabrics, gladiator sandals, and defined waists—all the hallmarks were there. “The criteria of archaic, then classical, Greek beauty are still valid. No one has ever created more beautiful female silhouettes,” declared the creative director of the double-C brand.
In the 1980s and 1990s, this aesthetic was also all the rage, driven by Thierry Mugler and Yves Saint Laurent. However, the origins of the peplum in fashion may date back to the 19th and 20th centuries, when Mariano Fortuny created the Delphos dress—named after the statue of the Charioteer of Delphi—a piece that became so iconic that the designer filed a patent for it in Paris.
To design this piece, he drew inspiration from the chiton, an undergarment worn in ancient Greece. Madame Grès and Madeleine Vionnet also made draping—for the former—and bias-cut techniques—for the latter—their signature art forms in order to liberate women’s movement.
Read more > Fringes, transparency, slits… 5 trends spotted at Fashion Week autumn-winter 2026-2027
Featured Photo: © Chanel croisière 2017/2018 / GETTY IMAGES
