One of the seven main Ionian Islands, Ithaca is among the archipelago’s smallest, along with Paxos. From the very first encounter, it becomes clear that this is a place of genuine, understated beauty, free from the noise, excess and superficial attractions designed simply to grab attention.
According to Greek mythology, this is where Odysseus finally returned after his long journey home from the Trojan War. Perhaps that is why every visitor who arrives on the island feels as though they, too, are embarking on a journey of their own. The endless blue of the Ionian Sea and the lush green landscapes invites you to explore the island as well as your own inner journey.
From Vathy to Kioni
Vathy, the island’s capital, sits at the head of a sheltered natural harbor lined with colorful neoclassical houses, cafés, restaurants, and sailing boats. During the summer, yachts from across the Ionian drop anchor here, giving the waterfront a lively but relaxed atmosphere.
At the center of the bay lies the tiny islet of Lazaretto, one of the island’s most romantic landmarks. Its small Church of the Transfiguration hosts numerous weddings and baptisms throughout the season. During Venetian rule, however, Lazaretto served as a quarantine station, and later as a prison.
Despite its size, Vathy is home to two excellent museums well worth visiting: the Archaeological Museum of Vathy and the Ithaca Maritime and Folklore Museum.
On the island’s northern side lies Kioni, one of Ithaca’s most beautiful villages. Driving through its narrow streets is almost impossible, so visitors leave their cars at the entrance and explore on foot. Climb to the village’s upper reaches and you’ll be rewarded with panoramic views over its peaceful harbor, where colorful houses seem to tumble gently down to the sea.
Don’t miss the mountain village of Perachori, which offers spectacular views over Vathy and its verdant bay. Frikes, on the island’s northeastern coast, is another highlight: a tiny, picture-perfect fishing village that feels wonderfully untouched by time.
The monoliths and the monastery of Panagia Katharon
Among Ithaca’s most remarkable natural landmarks are its towering monoliths, the largest of which, known as Araklis, rises to a height of nine meters. Locally referred to as menhirs, these striking limestone formations were shaped over thousands of years by the erosive action of water. They are scattered around Anogi, Ithaca’s highest village, perched at an altitude of around 550 meters.
Another of the island’s must-see landmarks is the Monastery of Panagia Katharon, Ithaca’s most important place of pilgrimage. Located 15 kilometers from Vathy, it stands at an elevation of 600 meters, commanding uninterrupted views in every direction.
Beaches worth seeking out
Some of Ithaca’s finest beaches require a little extra effort to reach, but that’s part of their appeal.
Ammoudi is a beautiful pebble beach tucked into a lush, sheltered cove on the island’s northwestern coast. It is accessible only by boat, either by private vessel or by small excursion boats departing from the sandy beach of Poli.
The island’s famously photogenic Afales Bay almost looks too spectacular to be real. Yet these six dazzling turquoise coves, embraced by towering white cliffs and filled with crystal-clear water, are every bit as breathtaking in person.
According to many locals, Gidaki is the island’s most beautiful beach. You can reach it either by water taxi or on foot via the hiking trail that begins at Schinos Bay, a walk of around 30 minutes. If you choose the latter, your first swim in its crystal-clear waters will more than reward the effort.
For travelers looking for easier access, Marmakas and Poli offer equally inviting swimming without the hike, both reachable by road.
This story first appeared in Greece Is.
