By Lisa Radinovsky from Greek Liquid Gold.
Greek olive oil producers described their journeys to success as their paths converged in Ancient Olympia in June. They explained how they discovered the true meaning of Greek liquid gold, then dedicated themselves to studying the potential of this natural treasure and ways to work with nature to make it even more valuable. The result: sales and acclaim.
At the Wine and Olive Oil in the Mediterranean conference, representatives from six olive oil companies that won Olympia Health & Nutrition Awards for the large quantity of beneficial natural phenolic compounds (polyphenols) in their Greek extra virgin olive oil told stories of hard work, amazing growth, impressive health benefits, and well-deserved rewards.
These are stories of Greek olive oil producers who realized that family farms could do far more than provide oil for families and friends. They learned from and supported the research of scientists such as Professor Prokopios Magiatis and Dr. Eleni Melliou at the University of Athens and the World Olive Center for Health. The basis of their success: continuous discoveries about the wide-ranging health benefits of high phenolic extra virgin olive oil, and innovations enabling the production of this especially healthy type of early harvest olive oil.
Greek olive oil companies “starting from invisibility can really rise high”
The first success story at the conference came from the U.S.-based company Kosterina. Inspired by Greek-American founder Katerina Mountanos’s lifelong love for traditional Greek foods and her concern about the standard American diet making people sick, Kosterina evolved as a modern Mediterranean diet movement took shape in the USA. As consumers learned about using Mediterranean-style nutrition to improve their health and lengthen their lives, Kosterina was “proving that healthy can also be delicious,” as Zoi Tikou-Gounaris said. They did so with wide-ranging social media campaigns, partnerships with famous influencers, and major TV appearances. Kosterina makes traditional Greek products accessible, both online and in major American supermarkets. As Tikou-Gounaris pointed out, this enables Americans to incorporate such healthy foods into their diet on a daily basis. Kosterina’s latest project is high phenolic extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) shots, which were an immediate hit.
Evangelia Gkionis provides more evidence that “starting from invisibility, you can really rise high,” as conference moderator and co-organizer Prokopios Magiatis commented. Gkionis explained that she participated in a scientific project (ARISTOIL) that inspired her ten years ago. She then switched to an earlier harvest of unripe olives, although they yielded less oil. She attained certification for ecological farming and applied regenerative procedures “so everyone can safely consume our olive oil.” Gkionis’s Evolia brand of EVOO ended up extra healthy and prize-worthy. This year, it was among the top three Greek olive oils at the Olympia Health & Nutrition Awards. Gkionis aspires to have high phenolic olive oil attain the status of fine wine. As Magiatis concluded, Gkionis’s example “shows that the value of an olive oil can be increased considerably, starting with a family olive grove,” and ending up with an olive oil that’s used in clinical trials “and sold at high prices around the world.”
Greek olive oil producers’ innovations, inventions, and global reach
Research, value, and international reach were also part of Eftychis Androulakis’s story of the evolution of his Pamako extra virgin olive oil. This EVOO originates in Crete’s native, centuries-old high-altitude Tsounati olive trees. After Androulakis shifted his harvest from February to October, his EVOO’s phenolic content nearly tripled. Other important changes included removing the olive pit and using UV-C chambers for olive sterilization, instead of washing. Now Pamako has captured hundreds of prizes for both flavor and health benefits with the help of his numerous innovations and inventions, including two worldwide patents for olive mill machinery. Additionally, Androulakis has collaborated with pharmaceutical companies abroad to draft legislation to legalize the first use of olive oil as a food supplement in Belgium, France, and Luxembourg. Approval in more European countries is likely to follow. This enables doctors to prescribe his EVOO, which is sold in pharmacies where approved. Pamako also travels to 60 nations for use as a food. Reflecting on all of this, Magiatis commented on “the leaps we have taken since 2016” regarding recognition and appreciation of olive oil’s health benefits.
At the founding conference of the Oleocanthal International Society in 2015, a focus on the benefits of oleocanthal, the most studied phenolic compound in olive oil, initiated the big changes for Greek olive oil producers and consumers that have occurred in the last decade. Having participated in that conference, Dimitris Therianos discovered that what the ancient Greek physicians Dioscorides and Hippocrates had said about olive oil’s benefits was true. Switching to ecological farming, Therianos began giving his mother olive oil for her health problems. When her health improved, her family believed this was proof that olive oil was even more beneficial than they’d thought. Since then, Therianos has patented a process to increase the phenolic content in EVOO. Now the Therianos family ships their olive oil around the world and receives international visitors at their farm in Zakynthos, “to get them acquainted with olive oil and its value.”
Greek olive oil producers saving villages and creating superfoods
Similarly, Spyros Dafnis and his family created a tourist destination in their mill on Corfu, as well as exporting their Governor EVOO to dozens of countries. The Governor’s olive oil mill and brand were established because he and his brother George wanted to involve more people in profitable olive oil production on their island, so rural villages could survive. They were horrified by the abandonment of 70% of the island’s olive groves. After setting up their mill, they began hosting groups of students there in an effort to interest more young people in becoming Greek olive oil producers. So new customers could take a piece of Corfu home with them, they set up tasting events and salepoints at the airport. Now the native Lianolia variety olive oil of Corfu appears at hotel breakfasts and olive oil tastings and at The Governor’s Olive House, Corfu’s only olive oil bar. The Dafnis family’s next step is a technologically advanced “olive mill of the future.” As Magiatis commented, Dafnis’s story demonstrates that “if you can dream it, you can do it.”
Discovering the great value of wild olives, Vivie Markomichelaki and her team pick them by hand and process them in an organic olive oil mill to “create a unique superfood.” The largest private wild olive tree farm in Greece, the Volvi Estate, is located in a Natura protected zone with a unique microclimate, by Lake Volvi in northern Greece. Markomichelaki explained that wild olive trees have been growing there for centuries, owned by her family for three generations. With wild olives, five times as much fruit is needed to make a liter of oil compared to domesticated olives. However, the Volvi Estate’s 60,000 wild olive trees are also strong and resistant to disease, making them perfect for organic production.
How to compose more olive oil success stories and share them worldwide
Bringing a philhellenic American’s perspective to Greece in another conference session, Dan Flynn recommended California wine as a model for an olive oil sector that could feature even more success stories. Flynn mentioned the importance of prioritizing flavor alongside health benefits—something a number of Greek companies already do. He suggested that more Greek olive oil companies should imitate wineries in offering food pairing suggestions for their olive oil. He also advocated utilizing awards as “independent validation you can use in talking to the press or retailers,” and to justify raising prices to levels that make olive oil production profitable in the face of high costs. Moreover, he encouraged Greek olive oil producers to reach out to consumers with emotional appeals and by offering face-to-face or online agrotourism experiences.
For Dimitris Therianos, who organizes agrotourism activities on Zakynthos, “olive oil has symbolized knowledge and wisdom since antiquity,” when the goddess Athena gave the olive tree to the people of Athens, according to a famous myth. He considered the Wine and Olive Oil in the Mediterranean Conference’s highlighting of olive oil and its benefits “a tribute to olive trees, to Mother Earth who offered us these treasures. I hope we will value it and respect it.” When producers recognize the multi-faceted value of olive oil and successfully communicate that value to consumers, they can help spread good health and great flavors across the globe.
*Originally published on Greek Liquid Gold: Authentic Extra Virgin Olive Oil (greekliquidgold.com). See that site for recipes with olive oil, photos from Greece, agrotourism and food tourism suggestions, and olive oil news and information.
