Greeks also have long memories when it comes to past conflicts: O Vyronas (Lord Byron), who gave his life for the Greek Revolution in 1824, is still remembered fondly throughout the country, and Cretans often reminisce about the derring-do of Patrick Leigh Fermor, who helped rally the island’s resistance during the Second World War. “We have always liked the British – like them, we believe in tradition,” says Dimitris Stavropoulos, the director of the non-profit organisation Hermoupolis Heritage, on the island of Syros.
However, the warm welcome won’t last long if you don’t respect a few important rules. Here are my pointers.
Don’t be obnoxious
In the 1950s novel The Ugly American by Eugene Burdick and William Lederer, the term “Ugly American” is used to describe US citizens behaving obnoxiously in south-east Asia: “A mysterious change seems to come over Americans when they go to a foreign land. They isolate themselves socially. They live pretentiously. They are loud and ostentatious.”
Its counterpart, the “Ugly Briton”, would be the one who bawls out to friends in the street, instead of waiting to be close enough to chat; who eats food in a taxi or drinks beer in the street; who wanders around bare-chested or clad in a skimpy bikini in busy town centres or takes endless selfies in popular spots. Want to be loved by Greeks? Don’t be the Ugly Briton.
Learn a few words of Greek
English may be the European Union’s first language, but Greeks swear it should be theirs. “Everything comes from Greek, even ‘OK’ – which is shorthand for ola kala, which means ‘all OK’,” one friend argued (though his etymological theory isn’t widely supported). You might not want to adopt Greek as your own official language but if you make the effort to learn certain key words and phrases – kalimera (“good day”); kalispera (“good evening”); efcharisto (“thank you”); parakalo (“please”) – Greeks will appreciate it.
Dress decently for church
According to a recent Global Consumer Survey by Statista, 45 per cent of Britons identify as atheists or non-religious. In Greece, however, where 98 per cent of residents adhere to the Greek Orthodox faith, respect for all things religious is paramount. Covering up in churches and monasteries is a must. Both men and women should conceal bare arms with a shirt or shawl; women should also wear a long skirt to cover their knees. Going behind the altar in a church – even when it’s empty (and especially if you are a woman) – is also a big no-no, and if you feel the urge to mimic locals and kiss the icons, never kiss them on the face.
Tip, tip, tip
Most hospitality workers receive around €780 (£660) per month, which is close to the minimum wage in Greece for 2024. According to a recent report by the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development, however, Greece is the fourth-most expensive country worldwide in terms of food prices, with 26 per cent of the population facing the risk of poverty, according to the Hellenic Statistical Authority. Many Greeks have two jobs and work 14- to 16-hour days in season just to make ends meet. A tip – even if it’s only a couple of euros – makes a huge difference.
