My love affair with Greece began in the 1980s – all thanks to a TV historian and academic called Michael Wood. A hugely enthusiastic presenter, Wood was one of the first to bring history to the masses with his boots-on-the-ground, easy-access documentaries.
As a sixth-former studying A-level ancient history, I struggled with dry textbooks. Then came Wood’s series In Search Of The Trojan War, and suddenly classical Greece sprang to life: ancient temples and romantic mythology, amid flower-speckled islands and characters aplenty.
More than four decades later, Greece remains the place I love most to visit – not least for its unhurried pace and philoxenia, the ancient tradition of hospitality that remains to this day.
I’ve visited many times, staying in countless hotels. From family-run B&Bs to luxurious resorts, each stay has left its mark. Here are my top ten…
MY NUMBER ONE HOTEL: Ammon Zeus Hotel, Kallithea
Arriving at this beachside, family-owned mainland hotel on the edge of the small town of Kallithea – on the first ‘finger’ of Halkidiki – feels like coming home. You get all the trappings of a luxury stay: bright, airy rooms, a boutique subterranean spa and plump sun loungers. But what makes it special is the staff, who treat guests like family.
Despite having 100 rooms, the place is compact and never feels impersonal. The food is hearty and fresh, whether you’re dining at the main buffet or the more intimate, vine-roofed taverna. There’s a pool, though it’s almost redundant as the private beach fringing the hotel melts straight into crystal-clear waters.
Evenings unfold slowly, without the need for booming entertainment, just the sound of a live singer drifting through the velvet warmth of a Greek night and a cocktail in hand.
Angela Epstein has stayed in numerous hotels, small and large, across Greece
And you can’t escape the sense of history here: it’s the only hotel in Greece that sits right beside an ancient temple – the Ammon Zeus, from which the hotel takes its name.
Book it: Doubles from £91 in an Eco garden view room (ammon-zeus.gr).
BEST INNER-CITY HOTEL: Electra Palace, Thessaloniki
The croissant-shaped Electra Palace curves round the edge of Thessaloniki’s main Aristotelous Square with a sloping view to the sea. I love how it manages to dodge the marble blandness of smart city-centre hotels. Sure, there are liveried porters and furniture pieces from Greece’s art scene are speckled throughout the hotel. But the staff are unstuffy and the sun-bright foyer and lounge create an easy, unhurried atmosphere.
One of the big draws is the seventh-floor Orizontes Roof Garden. I adore dawdling over bowls of freshly peeled oranges at breakfast and looking across the square and on to the shimmering waters of the Thermaikos Gulf – on a good day you can also see Mount Olympus. There’s even a rooftop pool in which to cool down.
Book it: Doubles from £175 B&B (electrahotels.gr).
BEST SPOT TO AVOID THE CROWDS IN BUSY RESORTS: Melenos Art Boutique Hotel, Rhodes
Despite being located in the tourist honey-trap village of Lindos, this 12-suite boutique hotel is like Narnia. Access is not through a wardrobe, but via an unobtrusive side door that opens to a village within a village, with courtyards, terraces and a huddle of white-washed buildings.
Inside, art seems to come alive through the mosaic terraces, fresco ceilings, carved woodwork and Greek and international antiques curated by the owner, Michalis Melenos. There’s no pool, but the beach is a short walk away.
Book it: Doubles from £200 B&B (melenoslindos.com).
BEST FOR DODGING TRAFFIC: Mandraki Beach, Hydra
Reached by a 90-minute ferry from Athens’ port of Piraeus, Hydra doesn’t allow cars. No worries for guests at the Mandraki Beach, however, who are collected from the port on the hotel’s complimentary water taxi.
The hotel itself – a smart, low-rise collection of 17 suites built on the site of a 19th century naval fortification – is on Hydra’s only beach. The suites are on the edge of the sand, though many have mini-pools too.
Captain M, the resort’s restaurant, focuses on Greek cuisine and is a draw even for non-residents thanks to dishes using freshly caught fish. Mandraki is a haven for lazy days spent devouring paperbacks under the sun.
Book it: Doubles from £215 B&B (mandrakibeachresort.com).
BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY HOTEL: MarBella Corfu
What at first glance might seem like a standard, mass-market all-inclusive hotel – with its own aqua park – turns out to have plenty of heart and a surprising touch of elegance.
As such it’s an escape for families, couples and solo travellers alike. My husband and I visited without our children and still felt we could enjoy a relaxed, deluxe adult vibe thanks to a choice of pools and restaurants.
Although sizeable – there are 362 rooms and suites – the MarBella is designed like a layer cake set in lush gardens. If the aqua park doesn’t appeal, there’s a tranquil private beach and a weekly complimentary sunset cruise (best to book early).
Book it: Doubles from £200 (marbella.gr).
BEST ISLAND RETREAT: Eliamos Suites, Kefalonia
You know you’ve entered eco-friendly territory when even the exercise bike in the outdoor gym is made of wood. In fact, wood is everywhere at Eliamos, and it seems to melt seamlessly into the surrounding countryside.
The hotel, which holds two Michelin Keys, is also a member of Relais & Chateaux, so it’s not cheap – but if you need a total recharge, it’s worth it. Expect a cluster of sleek, contemporary villas, each with sunny terraces and a pool.
There’s not a huge amount to do. There’s only one restaurant, but the food is exceptional. And the finest evening entertainment? Soaking up the profound silence.
Book it: Doubles from £660 B&B in an Ammos Suite (eliamos.com).
BEST VIEW: Zeus Dolce Athens, Brauron
I could sit on the vast terrace of the Dolce for hours, simply gazing at the cobalt-blue bay. Although it’s a five-star resort, it almost revels in not being too polished. As the delightful operations manager, Ana, likes to say: ‘It’s about easy comfort, not excess.’
Accommodation ranges from guest rooms to suites and bungalows, but if you can, go for the jewel in the crown: the two-bedroom Villa Aphrodite, up the hill from the terrace.
Dining is relaxed and unfussy, with a main restaurant serving a broad selection of Greek and international buffet-style dishes.
The hotel stays open until the end of November – my favourite time to visit Greece. The weather is still mild and the walking trails are peaceful.
Book it: Doubles from £131 B&B (zeusintl.com).
BEST OUTER-CITY HOTEL: St George Lycabettus
Perched on the upper slopes of Lycabettus Hill, one of the highest points in Athens, this effortlessly cool hotel is a 30-minute walk from the centre in the chic district of Kolonaki.
The location is fabulous. On one side you’re surrounded by trendy shops and bars. On the other, forested trails lead to charming picnic spots.
Try to get a room on the top floor for the view of the city crowned by the Parthenon on one side and the gleaming chapel of Agios Georgios on Lycabettus Hill on the other. No worries if not though – you can enjoy it all from the spectacular rooftop bar and pool area.
Book it: Doubles from £251 B&B (sgl.gr).
BEST RURAL GETAWAY: Naxian Collection, Naxos
Naxos is my favourite Greek island – a fat, splodge-shaped mass of farmland, valleys, vineyards and unspoilt beaches. The Naxian sits on a rocky outcrop high above the whitewashed houses of Chora, the island’s capital.
The hotel has no grand main building. When I first visited, I thought I was in the wrong place! Instead, it’s a huddle of quietly refined suites and villas.
I love wandering through the veg garden or reading in the whisky library, before taking a dip in one of the pools dotted around the property.
You can’t fly directly to the island – go via Athens or take the ferry from Piraeus or Mykonos.
Book it: From £250 B&B for a suite with a shared pool (naxiancollection.com).
BEST SPA HOTEL: Kinsterna Hotel & Spa, Monemvasia
Tucked away on the Peloponnese coast, Kinsterna Hotel & Spa takes its name from the ancient word for ‘cistern’ – and water is everywhere in this former Byzantine mansion.
Thick stone walls, timber beams and sleek, minimalist furnishings give the hotel an almost monastic calm. Outside, a spring-fed pool spills over terraces into olive groves, stretching to the Aegean. One area is adults-only, though children are welcome (we first went when our daughter was 11).
The spa feels both historic and authentic, a candlelit labyrinth of stone chambers, where treatments are delivered in hushed serenity.
Book it: Double rooms from £200 B&B (kinsternahotel.gr).
