Simply prepared Mediterranean fish stars in special-occasion-worthy Back Bay digs.
Avra Estiatorio. / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal
Avra Estiatorio is betting on Boston’s appetite for fish. The upscale mini-chain of Greek-inspired seafood spots—with glamorous locations in Beverly Hills, Miami, New York City, and beyond—is now open in Back Bay, featuring simply garnished, charcoal-grilled fish, including Mediterranean imports like tsipoura and lavraki. Plus: towers of crispy zucchini and eggplant chips, pretty platters of sashimi, and hilariously large slices of chocolate cake and coconut pie.
Avra Estiatorio’s sashimi platter. / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal
Avra Estiatorio’s spicy tuna crispy rice. / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal
The sprawling second-floor location at the Lyrik development, atop just-opened Peruvian restaurant Rosa y Marigold, feels primed for special occasions, from the white tablecloths to the copious faux olive trees. Elegant, wing-like structures dangle above the marble bar, and several private dining rooms are event-ready. In the warmer seasons, terrace seating will be available on Lyrik’s upper level, an unlikely oasis perched above the Pike.
Avra Estiatorio. / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal
The bar at Avra Estiatorio. / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal
Diners are encouraged to swing by the fish “market,” a display brimming with whole specimens on ice, to choose their seafood and peer through the large window into the kitchen. “Everybody wants to experience the fish market,” says Avra cofounder Nick Tsoulous—but for those who want to stay at the table, staff will present options on a tray. Many of the selections are from the Mediterranean, but Boston, of course, has plenty of its own great seafood, and “we love [sourcing] locally, if available,” says Tsoulous. Next, the fish is grilled, deboned, and finished with ladolemono sauce, a Greek mix of olive oil and lemon. (The Avra team seems particularly proud of the restaurant’s olive oil; there’s a bottle on each table. It’s from a small family farm in the Peloponnese and is a first-harvest oil, which has a bolder taste than oils from later harvests.)
Avra Estiatorio’s chips (crispy zucchini and eggplant with tzatziki) and lobster pasta. / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal
Avra Estiatorio’s whole fish, grilled and served with ladolemono. / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal
While the fish is the star of the 26-year-old restaurant group—more precisely, “Greek seafood with Mediterranean influence,” says Tsoulous—there’s also “a great selection of meats” and other dishes, all meant to be shared. Start with a Greek salad, says Tsoulous, featuring Kalamata olives, feta, tomatoes, peppers, and onions, and then an appetizer such as grilled octopus with caper and red wine vinaigrette. Next, raw fish of some kind, whether a sashimi platter of Faroe Island salmon, big eye tuna, and hamachi or lavraki ceviche with a bit of heat from jalapeño. Grilled fish-market selections and other entrees come next—lobster pasta, for instance, or Colorado lamb chops—followed by celebratory, somewhat over-the-top desserts.
Avra Estiatorio’s lavraki ceviche. / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal
Avra Estiatorio’s lamb chops. / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal
This is the eighth location for Avra, which Tsoulous founded in 2000 in New York City’s Midtown East with Nick Pashalis, his longtime business partner in other food endeavors, and Marc Packer, cofounder of Tao Group Hospitality (which is behind major restaurant and nightlife destinations in New York, Las Vegas, and elsewhere). The Avra founders waited 16 years before opening a massive second location elsewhere in the city, and expansion continued from there. Avra tends to attract A-listers and power players wherever it opens, but its roots are humble: The restaurants are inspired by Tsoulous’ coastal Greek hometown of Nafpaktos, where he grew up fishing with his father and uncles and feasting on their catch with family.
Avra Estiatorio. / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal
Avra Estiatorio. / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal
“We like Boston, and we think it’s a big fish town,” says Tsoulous, and it felt like the time was right to open here. “We think there’s not enough food here the way we do it, and not a lot of Greek seafood restaurants.” Besides, says Tsoulous, Boston has a big Greek population: “I think they’re very anxious to come in and try our menu.”
The fish “market” at Avra Estiatorio, where diners can choose fish to be prepared. / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal
Cocktails at Avra Estiatorio. / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal
400 Newbury St. (at the upper level of the Lyrik), Back Bay, Boston, 617-592-8888, theavragroup.com.
Avra Estiatorio’s coconut pie. / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal
Chocolate cake and ice cream at Avra Estiatorio. / Photo by Rachel Leah Blumenthal






