Ditching the UK for a trip to Greece is hardly a new idea.
Last year, 4.5 million Brits arrived in the land of olive oil and ancient ruins, with arrivals from the UK increasing 88.5% in November 2024, compared to the previous year. And, with London well and truly settled into its autumnal chill, there’s little wonder why so many of us are swapping the grey skies of the capital for the Grecian blue.
But, while Athens, Crete or Santorini might seem like the obvious choices, there’s another, smaller island that is ready and waiting to capture your heart.
Roughly an hour and a half ferry ride from Rhodes, the quaint island of Symi stands pretty with its pastel painted houses stacked like macarons around the harbour. With a year-round population of just 3,000, it becomes a secluded haven off-season, visited by far fewer people than in the height of summer, but with all the charm still intact.
Still, if you’ve heard of Symi, it might be for all the wrong reasons. In June last year, the TV doctor Michael Mosley tragically died on the island after he went for a walk in 37-degree heat; his body was found four days later. When I visited Symi at the end of October, the story was still hot on the locals’ lips, but behind the headlines, the island has a unique, welcoming beauty.
The cooler temperatures (November has average highs of 20C and December 17C) make perfect conditions for hiking through the island’s winding mountain trails and pine-covered hillsides. The island is incredibly walkable: for the most famous route, climb the 500 steps from Gialos’s port up the Kali Strata to the village of Chorio, pausing on the benches along the way to take in the view. For an even wilder adventure, continue on to the coastal village of Pedi and follow the scenic incline trail up to Saint Nicholas (Agios Nikolaos Beach), where turquoise waters and a small taverna reward the effort.
This is just one of the utterly spectacular beaches Symi has to offer. A short boat ride from Gialos brings you to St George’s Bay (Agios Georgios Bay), a tranquil cove framed by towering, rugged cliffs. Be sure to bring food and drink, as there are no facilities here – just pristine waters, a pebbled shore, and scenery that will take your breath away. A walk along the coastal path from the harbour leads to Nimborio, a quiet corner of the island where the sea is so gentle and crystal-clear you could easily mistake it for a lake. It might be too cold to swim, but off-season, you could be lucky enough to have these postcard-perfect settings all to yourself.
Symi’s beautiful harbour (esrageziyor)
Whatever month you visit, no trip to Symi is complete without a stop at the Monastery of Archangel Michael Panormitis. The 18th-century complex is perched on the southern coast and is renowned for its intricate architecture, shimmering mosaics, and healing reputation, attracting pilgrims and visitors from across Greece and beyond. During my visit, one local told me she had come to light a candle and pray for a baby; later that year, she fell unexpectedly pregnant. “I come back every week,” she said.
It certainly feels like a place steeped in possibility and devotion, with the panorama around the monastery stretching from jagged peaks down to the glittering sea. Particularly in the later months of the year, the pace of life in Symi is slow: families of cats stroll freely through the streets as the early morning sunrise drifts lazily into the afternoon. And when it comes time to rest, Symi’s accommodations offer peace in abundance – to go full escape mode, choose to stay in one of the island’s private apartments, like Katrani Studios (from £72, book it here), just a short walk from the beach.
While you’ll need to check the restaurants’ and tavernas’ opening hours more closely during autumn and winter, Symi remains a place to feast. Head to the fish restaurant Pantelis on the waterfront for some truly mammoth portions; they’re known for their seafood linguine, and it doesn’t disappoint. Or brave the walk up the hill to the plant-adorned, family-run The Secret Garden, where fresh, locally sourced dishes are bursting with flavour. It might not be what you expect from Greece, but the over 30-year-old Dolphin Pizzeria in Gialos has become a favourite among residents and visitors alike, drawing crowds for its hearty slices – be sure to try the Symi shrimp pizza if you want a true local delicacy.
Katrani Studios (Booking.com)
Before you board the ferry, pick up one of the island’s famous natural sponges as a souvenir from what was once the centre of Greece’s sponge-diving trade. But the real joy of Symi is slipping into its unhurried rhythm. Without the crowds, it feels more authentic than ever – this is a place you can finally exhale.
