Sprawling Vineyards
Zitsa lies at elevations ranging from roughly 500-700 meters, in a landscape shaped by limestone soils, forested edges, and a cooler continental climate. These conditions have defined viticulture here for generations, favoring freshness, acidity, and clarity over weight or ripeness. The village’s identity is inseparable from Debina, a native white grape variety that thrives in this environment and expresses it with unusual transparency.
Debina produces wines with modest alcohol, pronounced acidity, and a restrained aromatic profile that moves through green apple, pear, citrus peel, and herbal tones, often accompanied by a mineral impression linked directly to the limestone beneath the vines. Its character makes it particularly sensitive to both site and winemaking choices, which is precisely what drew Thimiopoulos to Zitsa.
Listening First, Creating Next
Apostolos Thimiopoulos does not speak about winemaking as an act of control, but as a practice of attention. “My role is not to impose,” he says. “It’s to understand what the vineyard wants to give and help it reach that point.” That philosophy has shaped his work from the beginning.
Raised in Naoussa, he grew up among vineyards and wild natural landscapes, observing seasonal cycles and agricultural realities long before winemaking became a profession. As a child, he imagined two possible futures for himself, as a veterinarian or as a winemaker, as both are rooted in offering consistent care based on deep knowledge, working in connection with nature, as well as being able to face long-term responsibilities.
His reputation grew slowly but surely through his work with Xinomavro in Naoussa, where he demonstrated that the variety could express place and structure with clarity and confidence. Each wine he produced had a clear purpose, and none existed simply to expand a range. That same discipline defines his approach at Glinavos.
Upon acquiring the winery, there was no intention to reinvent it. “The Glinavos Winery already had rich history,” he explains. “My first responsibility was to listen, to understand Zitsa, Debina, the altitude, the limestone, the air that comes down from the mountains.” He describes Zitsa as a place that resists haste, both viticulturally and emotionally, and that resistance is part of its value, and tells me that part of his decision was inspired by how connected he is to its natural beauty.
Measured experimentation is one of Thimiopoulos’ priorities. Working with the same vineyards, he’s keen to explore different expressions of Debina through fermentation choices, time on lees, and sparkling methods, allowing the grape to reveal multiple facets without ever losing its identity. “Debina has simplicity,” he says, “but it also has depth. That combination gives you space to explore without distortion.”
The first wines released under Apostolos Thimiopoulos at Glinavos read as variations on a single idea rather than as separate projects, all centered on Debina and its response to Zitsa’s altitude and limestone-rich landscape. Fine Debina takes the most measured approach, with short, cool maceration, spontaneous fermentation, and extended time on fine lees giving the wine texture and quiet depth while preserving its natural acidity and mineral clarity, shaped by green apple, pear, and citrus peel. The Poème de Nature White Semi-Sparkling shifts the same grape into a more immediate register, using a second fermentation in tank to highlight freshness, fine bubbles, and a clean, stony edge, while the rosé version introduces Xinomavro in a supporting role, adding restrained red-fruit aromatics without altering the wine’s sense of altitude and balance. Together, the three wines outline a shared intention, allowing Debina to move between still and sparkling forms while remaining firmly anchored in place and season.
Thimiopoulos’ goals for his winery remain pragmatic, but also infused with visionary perspectives. Rather than expanding labels, he speaks about understanding the microclimate more deeply and following the vineyard over time. Other local varieties may follow only if they prove meaningfully connected to the place, he says, with Vlachiko mentioned as a future possibility grounded in altitude and regional history rather than novelty. And the focus is always organic and keeping the winemaking process as pure and uncomplicated as possible.
Beyond the Cellar, Zitsa on Foot
Zitsa rewards time spent walking. The village is compact, with stone-built houses and views that open toward surrounding hills. Daily life unfolds quietly, shaped by the area’s agriculture and efficient local rhythms. Here are our suggestions of what to see.
The Monasteries
One of Zitsa’s most important landmarks is the Monastery of Prophet Elias (Profitis Ilias), founded in 1598 and set on a hill overlooking the village and surrounding countryside. The site is closely linked to Lord Byron, who stayed here for two nights in 1809 after being caught in a violent storm during his travels through Epirus (though local legend has it that he was enjoying the local wine and a love affair), an episode later referenced in Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage. Today, the monastery remains a point of historical and cultural reference, valued as much for its panoramic setting as for its place in the region’s connection to European intellectual history. When we visited, we met the resident monk, who lives there alone with his dog, Tequila. He showed us the beautiful interiors that include antique frescoes as well as bullet holes from an Ottoman attack.
A second site of interest is the Monastery of Paliouri, dedicated to the Nativity of the Virgin Mary and dating to the eighteenth century. Located in a green, secluded landscape near the settlement of Paliouri, it reflects the area’s long religious tradition and offers a quieter, more contemplative counterpoint to the prominence of Prophet Elias.
The Very Visit-Worthy Museum
The Zitsa Etchings Museum adds another layer to the village’s identity. Housed in a restored stone building, it focuses on engraving and printmaking, with works by Greek and international artists, reinforcing Zitsa’s long relationship with the arts beyond wine and agriculture.
The collection traces the development of modern Greek printmaking from its 19th Century roots, when woodcuts circulated mainly through books and newspapers, to its full artistic autonomy in the twentieth century. It brings together key figures who shaped Greek etching, lithography, and wood engraving, reflecting the moment when printmaking moved from craft to recognized art form, closely linked to drawing, social history, and the evolution of modern Greek visual culture.
Just west of Zitsa, the Kalamas River, also known as the Thyamis, cuts a wide, unhurried path through open countryside, shaping the agricultural landscape and offering easy access to nature throughout the warmer months. Its broad banks and slower currents lend themselves to swimming, relaxed canoeing, and long riverside walks, particularly in spring and early summer, when water levels are generous and the surrounding fields are at their greenest.
Within easy driving distance, the Voidomatis River flows through the Vikos–Aoos National Park, fed by mountain springs and known for its exceptionally clear, cold water. Here, organized rafting routes trace stretches of the river beneath plane trees and historic stone bridges, while parallel footpaths allow hikers to follow the water through shaded sections of the gorge, making the river one of the most immersive ways to experience the scale and calm of Epirus’s natural environment.
The Best Bakery in the World
And for delicious pastries, cakes, pies and bread, don’t miss out on the local bakery, aka ‘The Best Bakery in the World’, which has become internationally recognized for its artisanal and very friendly approach. Run by a husband and wife team, it functions as both a local institution and a welcoming destination in its own right.
Indeed, Kostas, whose family has run the bakery for generations, and Anna, his American Environmental Lawyer partner, accommodate passing tourists – mainly cyclists – who come through the village, often free of charge in exchange for light assistance at the bakery, offering them food, bed and the special opportunity to experience authentic country life in this lush and serene destination. They are also currently building a community, helping families from around Greece and abroad (upon visiting there was a waiting list of 25 of them) to find homes in the village.
Anna, Kosta and their friends also host occasional events and cooking workshops, with the help of Kostas’ mother and other locals. Anna too, who met her husband while holidaying there for a few days with her sister, was deeply drawn to settling in Zitsa because of its peacefulness, friendliness, simplicity and beauty, and she says her friends from the US love finding refuge there. The appeal is significant, as Rea Kapetanaki, a Greek who although raised in Athens spent a significant part of her life living in the UK, and has now moved to the village for a simpler life, told me. “I didn’t expect to be so busy!” she laughs, holding bags full of freshly made panettone, which she helped make. “People in the city seem quite – agitated – all the time, and I wanted a quieter pace, and after moving here I realized there is so much life and so much to do, but there’s also nature, for long walks and swims, and quiet coffees in the village square.”
All Just 30 Minutes from Ioannina
Zitsa’s proximity to Ioannina is one of its greatest assets. Less than thirty minutes away, the city offers a different scale and rhythm without overwhelming the village experience.
Ioannina is built around Lake Pamvotis, whose presence shapes the city’s atmosphere. The old town, enclosed within castle walls, reflects centuries of Byzantine and Ottoman history, with museums, mosques, and narrow streets that encourage wandering rather than scheduling. A long tradition of scholarship and craftsmanship gives the city a cultural confidence that feels grounded and lived-in.
For visitors based in Zitsa, Ioannina provides access to dining, shopping, and museums, while allowing an easy return to vineyard landscapes by evening.
Hotel du Lac
Positioned directly on the edge of Lake Pamvotis, this long-established hotel combines late-modern architecture with generous interior spaces designed for comfort and functionality. Rooms are spacious and understated, while public areas open toward the water, reinforcing a relaxed, outward-looking feel. A full spa, wellness facilities, and professional service make it a practical and polished base for exploring Epirus while returning to a sense of ease at the end of the day.
Kamares Historic Boutique Hotel
Set in a historic stone building, Kamares combines traditional Epirus architecture with contemporary design choices. Vaulted spaces, warm materials, and a muted palette define the interiors, while the small spa adds a layer of comfort suited to slower travel. The overall mood is intimate and reflective, making it a good fit for travelers drawn to characterful spaces with a sense of continuity.
Hotel Antique
Housed in a restored neoclassical building near the city center, this hotel blends period architectural elements with modern comforts. Rooms feature high ceilings, classic proportions, and understated decor that respects the building’s original character. The atmosphere is discreet and composed, appealing to visitors who appreciate heritage settings without formality or excess.
Archontariki
Set in a restored mansion near Ioannina’s historic center, Archontariki draws on the proportions and materials of traditional Epirus architecture, with stone walls, wooden ceilings, and carefully preserved structural details. The interiors combine classic antique furnishings with contemporary comfort, creating a warm, residential atmosphere that feels rooted in place rather than styled for effect. The breakfast downstairs is memorable.
Θamon
A chef-driven restaurant focused on contemporary Greek cuisine grounded in Epirus ingredients and seasonal availability. Dishes draw on regional recipes and products, reworked with modern techniques and careful presentation, without drifting into excess. The dining room is understated and warm, with an atmosphere that encourages lingering and conversation.
To Magazaki Pou Legame
A contemporary taverna that treats traditional Epirus cooking with respect and clarity, focusing on well-sourced meats, seasonal vegetables, and familiar flavors presented without nostalgia. The menu changes regularly, reflecting availability rather than fixed categories. The setting is relaxed and modern, with a lively but grounded atmosphere that draws a loyal local following.
Presveia
An established favorite for elevated meze, designed around sharing and long tables rather than formal courses. The menu spans classic Greek small plates alongside more polished interpretations, supported by a thoughtfully assembled wine list. The space is convivial and energetic, balancing urban ease with a sense of continuity in the city’s dining culture.
