Autumn may still be at its beginning, but that doesn’t mean that nature hasn’t already started to reveal its beauty by creating magical images, like those from a painting in some faraway corner of Greece.
Before the cold even sets in, Kastoria encapsulates a complete autumn experience by combining natural beauty, history and romance in a single trip.
Picturesque and historic, Kastoria is located on the shores of Lake Orestiada in the mountainous highlands of Western Macedonia.
Built on the ruins of ancient Keletros, it traces its foundation to the years of Justinian and, despite the constant changes and rearrangements in the Balkan region, managed to endure and become one of the most interesting cities in Greece today.
Apart from its history, what is breathtaking about this small town is its amphitheatre, which is located on an otherworldly lake peninsula. Together with the calm waters of the ancient lake, this creates a romantic but melancholy picture.
This image is perfectly captured in every photo frame at any time of the day and can be forever etched in the memory of every visitor who visits the city and walks along its small lakeside promenade.
Lake Orestiada, with an area of nearly 28 square kilometres, is Kastoria’s natural jewel, as it is included in the European Natura 2000 protection network. Hundreds of bird species, such as silver pelicans, grey geese, larks, swans, herons, and cormorants, find refuge in its waters.
The lake is considered the second richest in freshwater catches in Greece. An autumn excursion cannot but include walks around the lake.
Weather permitting, a boat ride in the calm waters relaxes even the most anxious visitor. Ideal excursions are the nearby Cave of the Dragon, the legendary Neolithic Lake Settlement at Dispelio, and the Aquarium for lovers of aquatic life.
An autumn walk in Kastoria is never complete without a walk in Dolso. The picturesque district that dominates the south side of the city with its Macedonian mansions stands out for its picturesque architecture and old churches.
The stone-built square of Brothers Ioannis and Panagiotis Emmanuel is considered the oldest in Kastoria. It once was an important commercial centre and today hosts various events, such as Ragoutsarias, at the beginning of the new year.
Following Piheon and Kapetan Lazou streets, visitors discover the impressive restored Macedonian mansions through cobbled alleys.
Here, one can visit the Museum of the Macedonian Struggle and the Folklore Museum of Kastoria, housed in the Nerantzi Aivazi and Piheon mansions, respectively.
In particular, the Folklore Museum fully exhibits a traditional Kastoria house from the 19th century, exactly as it was then.
On the other hand, the old aristocratic neighbourhood of Kastoria, Apozari, on the peninsula’s northern side, full of emblematic mansions, cobblestones, and Byzantine churches, steals visitors’ impressions.
The mansions of the period reveal Kastoria’s newer history and the commercial wealth accumulated by the city during the 19th century.
A few metres from Apozari Square, there are some of the most important churches in the city.
The church of Agioi Anargyro, a three-aisled basilica of the 10th century, preserves sculptural decorative elements of the period, while the church of Agios Stefanos is a striking proof of the dense population of the northern quarter of the city in the Byzantine years.
Remnants of the Ottoman period in Kastoria include the Kursum Mosque, the only surviving mosque of the seven that the city had, and the city’s madrasa, the Ottoman seminary with 14 rooms, a library, a classroom, prayer rooms, cells for students, and a bath.
Yianni Koutroudi is a columnist for Travel. Translated by Paul Antonopoulos.
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