After my first couple of visits to the Greek island of Santorini, I had assumed most of the other Greek islands would be quite similar. So, I was happy to learn on subsequent visits to the wider Cyclades island group that I had, in fact, over 200 opportunities to be surprised.
I travelled to Folegandros on my last trip, which is one of the lesser-known islands in the southern Cyclades. Folegandros doesn’t have an airport, which means we had to land in bustling Santorini next door and catch a ferry. (You can also book a private boat transfer should you arrive at an inconvenient time.) In hindsight, this was the first indication that this island would be different.
For starters, Folegandros has a more rugged and dramatic landscape than many of the other islands I have visited. Its name translates as something like “rocky land” – and it certainly is. The roads are bumpy, the cliffs are wild, sheep jump from stone to stone, and trees curl up to the sky with sparse foliage.
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Such untamed ruggedness might seem incompatible with luxury – or at least a rather unlikely match. And yet, nestled among Folegandros’ rocky cliffs is Gundari – a spectacular cliffside luxury boutique hotel comfortably rivalling the high-end accommodation offerings of the more frequented islands.
(Image credit: Ana Santl)
Enjoy private pools and sea views at Gundari
Gundari opened in May 2024 and, after just one year, it had already won design awards and spots on newspapers’ “hot lists” and – a feat that’s all the more impressive when you consider that Gundari’s Australian founder, Ricardo Larriera’s background was in advertising, not hospitality.
The road to the hotel might be bumpy, but once you get there, nothing else about your stay will be. The hotel’s earth-toned exterior blends in perfectly with the island’s cliffs. The interiors are minimalistic and cool, with a warm twist to match the landscape’s colour palette.
After a long day of travelling, I collapsed onto the bed in my suite late at night, excited to wake up and admire the view in the light of day. Early the next morning, I stepped out onto a private pool that seemed to melt into the Aegean.
(Image credit: Ana Santl)
Every one of the hotel’s 25 suites has its own private infinity pool, as well as carefully considered sound systems. As someone who racks up tens of thousands of minutes listening to music every year, this was a welcome feature. If you want to opt for a suite with a twist, you can book one of the Cave Suites. These are subterranean rooms placed on the edge of the cliff, featuring bioclimatic design, meaning they’re cool when it’s hot outside and warm when it’s cold. The hotel also boasts two impressive villas, which are a bit more secluded and would be perfect for a group trip to celebrate a special occasion.
An exquisite cuisine with Greek roots
The hotel’s restaurant, Orizon, serves mostly locally sourced food –highly local, in fact, from Gundari’s own kitchen garden. Michelin-starred chef Lefteris Lazarou has created a menu where the focus is on fresh, seasonal and creative dishes, with their roots in Greek cuisine. The wine list is extensive, featuring international wines, but, most importantly, local ones too – and these are the ones I would stick to.
(Image credit: Martha Vosdou)
If dinner is a well-thought-out affair, then so is breakfast. Australians are serious about their brunch, so it was important to Larriera that the menu featured Australian favourites such as açai (a fruit and a “superfood”) as well as Greek scrambled eggs. I say get both. Of course, the hotel wouldn’t be complete without a spa. Here, sheltered by the cliff, therapists offer sumptuous treatments, including sound baths, meditation and, of course, massages.
Larriera already has plans for the next phase of the hotel, and they’re as exciting and ambitious as you’d expect from someone who undertook the assignment of building a luxury hotel on a cliff side, on an island off the beaten track.
Folegandros is an island waiting to be explored
Go to Gundari to relax, yes – but also to explore Folegandros. The island is small and easy to navigate. I would recommend a dip in the sea at Agali Beach, a tiny cove surrounded by high cliffs. Eat lunch at Pasithea, a Greek restaurant offering glorious views of the different shades of blue of the sea below.
(Image credit: Yiorgos Kordakis)
The island’s capital, Chora, is also worth a visit and our tour guide, Poly, talked us through the island’s history. Make sure you’ve got your walking shoes on though, especially if you want to walk the winding road up to the church.
Nicole was a guest of Gundari, which reopens on 15 May 2026. From £520 in May per night on a B&B basis. Visit Gundari.com. Turquoise Holidays offers five nights in a Standard Suite with Outdoor Private Pool and Sea View with breakfast from £3,100 per person, including Easyjet flights from Gatwick to Santorini and private boat transfers between Santorini and Folegandros. The price is based on two people sharing between 24 May and 29 May 2026. It includes a complimentary one-hour morning yoga class on Thursday, Saturday and Monday, 15% discount on the spa menu and 10% discount at Orizon
Restaurant. Visit turquoiseholidays.co.uk or call 01494 678 400.
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