Santorini, Mykonos and Athens may be the first locations that spring to mind when you think of Greece, but just a twenty minute ferry ride from Mykonos Airport you’ll find Tinos.
Renowned for its green marble, which adorns the walls and surfaces of many hotels, hidden away from the mainland you’ll also find historic monasteries, churches with unique pilgrimages and some of the best locations to stargaze in Europe.
All of this is available from Odera Tinos, a luxury boutique hotel by the cliffside, which has its own secluded beach and some of the best dining options I’ve enjoyed on my many trips around the globe.
The rooms
The hotel has four levels, each offering more benefits than the last. The top floor has scenic double rooms with sea views (and the gorgeous cove outside is certainly worth viewing), while the next two levels down house double rooms with a shared pool.
I stayed in the signature suite on the lowest level, and there was nothing like coming back after exploring the island, getting into my swimming costume, and heading to my own private pool. The water was a little too cold for my liking, but I soon got used to the temperature. With its salt water content, it was like swimming in the sea, minus the sand or seaweed.
The room came with two showers, one of which had a large glass pane that allowed you a view of the outside – word of warning: be careful of passersby down below! The king size bed was the perfect place to unwind, and while I didn’t use the television in my room, the setup meant I could have watched whatever I wanted before drifting off.
The size also meant that it was perfect for couples, and groups of friends can choose adjoining suites with a shared pool and a large outdoor seating area.
The spa & pool
While I’m not a fitness fanatic when I’m abroad, I was tempted by the considerably sized gym. I discovered my niche, however, with the beach yoga sessions, which are on offer on Mondays and Wednesdays at 9am. Despite never having attempted it before, I was quickly in ‘Warrior 3’ and ‘Tree’ pose thanks to the tutelage of the local instructor.
The yoga sessions took place on the beach, which is the perfect secluded hideaway. You can get there by walking or being driven by a staff member and I lost hours relaxing on the sand, curling up with my book and catching the sunrays before heading out into the Aegean Sea.
Also present is an on-site spa, with its own salt water swimming pool, a zero-body hydrogen room and a selection of treatments. I had the candlelit lavender experience, which left me feeling refreshed and my skin revitalised.
One of the highlights of my stay was stargazing. Only offered at select times of the year, including this approaching September, the night sky on Tinos is incredibly clear, allowing you almost unrestricted views – an alien experience for someone living in London.
Host Valerie Stimac is incredibly knowledgeable not only about the astral legends that might be familiar to your average stargazer, but also the ones specific to Greek mythology. Where some might see just a cygnet, others will be looking at a warrior of high valour transformed upon their death, or a scorned lover of Zeus seeking refuge from his vengeful wife, Hera.
The food & drink
Odera Tinos has several restaurants and bars available while Tinos itself is home to some lavish options. I really did enjoy dining at the hotel, which had the best seafood I’ve ever enjoyed, plus impeccable presentation.
I had never eaten sea bream before, but it was love at first bite. I had also never tried octopus before. Even though it was just a starter, the generous portion felt like it should have been a main course and I would not have been disappointed had it turned up as such. It was cooked and seared to perfection, and while I initially had some reservations about the suckers, these instantly dissipated as I savoured every mouthful.
Although the restaurant serves lunch, I highly recommend using it solely as your dinner option and instead heading to the beach bar. Not only are you served cocktails at your sun lounger, but they also offer a wide-ranging food menu. The steak sandwich was certainly a treat, but go for the chicken or seafood bowls, as these are the best accompaniment to beachside views that you could ask for.
When it comes to dining options outside of the restaurant, Choreftra is the place that I recommend most. Located in Kampos Village, it almost felt like we had our own private island. Despite the houses lining the streets, people weren’t out and about until we got to the restaurant. The lamb dish was one of the best I’ve ever enjoyed, and while we were lucky enough to sample every dessert, it was the pavlova that captured my heart.
The extras
While I wouldn’t blame you for wanting to solely camp out at Odera, there is plenty to explore on the island itself. The hotel is always on hand to help, whether by hiring cars and guides to shuttle you to locations, or with bespoke walking tours tailored to your abilities.
One of the most interesting features of the port town of Tinos was its Orthodox church, the Evangelistria Church, home to Our Lady of Tinos. An icon that was once buried on the grounds it’s believed to be the source of numerous miracles, and the location is often hailed as one of the greatest pilgrimage sites in Greece.
It’s not uncommon to observe people crawling up the hill on their knees to reach the building. It is open to non-religious people and provides some of the best views of the ocean for miles while also offering insights into the culture. I particularly enjoyed touring the church’s personal art gallery which contained dozens of exquisite paintings and statues. There is, however, a strict no photography rule.
Other highlights include the Ursulines’ Monastery, the marble museum and the scenic village of Pyrgos.
Pyrgos has to be one of the prettiest places I’ve ever been. It might live up to the stereotype of Greek architecture, with bright-blue roofs and rounded domes, but when you’re in Greece, this is what you want to see.
The marble museum is the perfect place to get a full insight into how the precious stone is integral to Tinos’s history, and it was fascinating wandering around its halls and admiring the gorgeous statues that had been created, some of them centuries ago.
At the Ursulines’ Monastery, our guide Giorgios was incredibly informative about the former nunnery, which served as a school and was visited by several Popes over the course of its existence. Although the Order no longer uses the building, it has been converted into a museum and guests can tour its rooms.
The one that stuck with me the most was the room where children’s paintings were on display. They far surpassed my meagre abilities and could genuinely have been hung up on the walls of any major art gallery.
The island and Odera were everything I could have wished for. With the ‘go, go, go’ nature of London, to find my own place to relax was just a dream. The sun shining down on a secluded beach, a relaxing spa, unwinding underneath the stars or just floating in my own private pool. Odera Tinos has to be the only way to experience the island.
A one-night stay at Odera Tinos starts at £232. The ‘Tinos by Starlight’ Astro-retreat experiences start from £184. For more rates & information, visit booking.com
