Where to: Luna Mare Cuisine in Ipswich.
Why: For Greek seafood, grilled meats, and mezze plates from around the Mediterranean.
The back story: Owner Petros Markopoulos ran his restaurant, Ithaki, at this Ipswich address for 25 years. In 2022 he moved it to Peabody. Last summer he returned to the Ipswich location with Luna Mare, a casual but elegant spot. The name, literally “moon sea,” is meant to represent the moment at night when the sea is as calm as a mirror and the moon reflects on the water, says manager Peter Papadimitriou.
What to eat: Oysters, shrimp, sardines, calamari, octopus, cod cheeks, and mussels, along with fried clams in a delightful presentation in which the clams are perched on aioli beside a top-loading brioche roll holding apple slaw. Delicious and perfect for sharing. Also: souvlaki (pork and chicken skewers), grilled lamb lollipops, branzino fillets (regrettably not whole), homemade fries with feta and oregano (irresistible), and a fine roasted vegetable dish called briam, in which potatoes, eggplant, zucchini, tomatoes, and feta are layered and baked. It’s an old dish, says manager Papadimitriou, made with what was grown outside the kitchen door. “Years and years ago, everyone had their own garden and picked the vegetables,” he says.
What to drink: Serviceable, moderately priced wines by the glass and bottle. Plenty of room to roam through native Greek varietal wines that will likely be new to you and fun to try. Signature cocktails include Mediterranean Mule with fig vodka and lime and a Greek 75 with bubbly and mastiha (piney flavor).
The takeaway: Luna Mare is a big place — 100 seats in small and large dining rooms, and a bar lounge — with muted tones, wood tables, and a striking mural on one wall of bare trees with blackbirds. Service is attentive and friendly, and even on a weeknight, the place is full. They’ve been embraced by locals. “Every day is a Saturday night,” says Papadimitriou. 25 Hammatt St., Ipswich, 978-626-1101, www.lunamarecuisine.com. Appetizers, salads, sandwiches, tapas $6-$24; entrees $24-$35.
Sheryl Julian can be reached at sheryl.julian@globe.com.
