In Greek mythology, the goddess Athena was chosen by the people of Athens as their patron after she showed them how fruitful her olive tree would be for them.
She was in a contest with her uncle, Poseidon, whose frivolous water show did little to persuade them that his powers could outweigh the benefits of the food, oil and wood the olive tree would provide.
In Nashville, Tennessee, the people have chosen country music as their olive tree.
Nashville doesn’t demand undying loyalty to its greatest export immediately, however. You’re lulled into country music fandom, even if you come in as a sceptic of the genre like I did.
At first, the country music begins as barely audible from the tinny speakers of an empty airport or trendy café; Uber drivers play it at a reasonable enough level for conversation, so as not to irritate you.
Then, you hear it blasting from the unbelievably large pick-up trucks. You see the great reverence that it commands in the Grand Ole Opry. And finally it comes to a crescendo inside the copious amount of honky tonks on the vibrant, discombobulating and sometimes scary Broad Street.
During my visit to the renowned capital of Tennessee this autumn, no truer words were uttered than when an enthusiastic tour guide from the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum said: “Music to Nashville is what Hollywood is to California, or the strip to Las Vegas.”
My first journey to the states was a seven-day trip that included a stop-over in Iceland. Thanks to its unique location, the country serves as a gateway to the America. But it is more than just a layover.
If you decide to opt for a stopover, which comes at no extra charge when flying with Icelandair, you will find a country with a beautiful landscape, palate elevating nibbles, spirit cleansing spas like the Sky Lagoon, and a fascinating history of fierce Vikings turned peaceful settlers who have made a haven from one of the most unforgiving climates in the world.
In the USA, our motley crew of journalists went for drinks and small bites at the established and upcoming neighbourhoods of Nashville.
Sat for breakfast and coffee at the Frothy Monkey, a local café in the 12 South neighbourhood where it wouldn’t be unusual to rub shoulders with the likes of Taylor Swift, or Jack White (or so we were told).
Nor is it uncommon for the barista serving you to have thousands of listeners on Spotify. We also trawled through the sprawling Halloween fever dream that was the Cheekwood Estate and Gardens.
We were given a tour of music history, visiting the local museums and galleries such as the Ryman Auditorium, Musician’s Hall of Fame and Museum, the National Museum of African American Music, the Historic RCA Studio B and more.
Indulged in the local delicatessen for dinner at Hattie B’s, lunch at St. Vito Focacceria, Henrietta Red and at the world-famous Arnold’s Country Kitchen.
The highlights of the trip came when we got to revel in all things distinctively American and Nashville. The Grand Ole Opry, a daily live country-music radio show broadcast from a packed 4,000-seater theatre, was a whale of a time.
The entertainment served up was an unmistakeable brand of, clean-cut, family friendly and conservative American fun. It was just as entertaining watching four sat directly in front of me sing and dance along to their country favourites who sang of cowboy escapades, long lost lovers, and sad songs about family members no longer with us.
Watching an up-and-coming bluegrass musician stick the landing after being challenged by veteran guitarist, Vince Gill was quite special to witness.
Nothing exemplified hearty and warm American soul food more than Arnold’s Country Kitchen. Dolly Parton’s favourite place to eat, it was the type of establishment where food was served with the affection that southern hospitality decrees.
Fried shrimp fried green tomatoes, collard greens, pecan pie, biscuits, and a devilishly astounding chilli chocolate pie.
The plates were too full to finish and I left needing eight hours of sleep in the middle of the afternoon.
Arnold’s Country Kitchen has been in Nashville since 1982. A family business, it’s ran by Kahlil Arnold and his mother Rose Arnold.
If you ever happen to visit and get a chance to speak to Kahlil, ask him about his Dolly Parton story.
It wasn’t all plane sailing in the big red, white, and blue, however. One monument that failed to astonish was the Parthenon in Centennial Park.
Built in 1897, it is a full-scale replica of the original Parthenon in Athens, Greece and it was designed by architect William Crawford Smith.
Inside the Parthenon stands a 42-foot-tall replica of the goddess Athena which was completed in 1990. The Parthenon also serves as an art gallery, and inside the building are more replicas of ruined Greek marble statues.
While impressive to marvel at in scale, it does little to whet the appetite of a European traveller who could spend half of what it cost to visit Nashville to see the real ruins in actual Greek cities.
“I find it a little bit tacky.” I was told by an incredibly French man as I stared at the replica pillars.
Nashville has enough to offer by way of its history, traditions, and deep love for country music, when it sticks to that, it’s fantastic city that you should have on your bucket list.
Travel fact file
Rami was a guest at the Tempo by Hilton Nashville Downtown and the Thompson Nashville by Hyatt.
A standard room at the Tempo starts from $199 / 172 / £148 per night. A standard room at the Thompson Nashville starts from $339 / €294 / £253 per night.
In Iceland, he stayed at the Parliament Hotel by Hilton in Reykjavik. A standard room at the Parliament Hotel starts from £215/€250 per night.
Rami flew from London Heathrow to Keflavik Airport in Iceland and then the Nashville International Airport. On the way back to Manchester he had a 24-hour stop over in Reykjavik.
When you fly transatlantic with Icelandair, you can choose to add a 1 to 7 day stopover in Iceland at no additional airfare.
Flights from Manchester to Nashville: Return lead fare in economy from £757
UK flights are available from London Heathrow, London Gatwick, Manchester, Glasgow or Edinburgh. Visit icelandair.co.uk for more information.
The Sky Lagoon experience starts from £85 / €98
Entry to Cheekwood Estate and Gardens costs as below per adult:
- Gardens only from $20 / €17 / £15
- Gardens + Mansion from $26 / €22 / £20
· Entry to The Parthenon costs $15 / €13 / £12 per adult
Tickets to see a Predators NHL game at the Bridgestone Arena start from the below per adult:
- $40 for the upper bowl (€35 / £30)
- $85.75 in the lower bowl (€75 / £64)
Tickets to see the Grand Ole Opry start from the below per adult
- Tickets start at $40.6 for the upper level (€36 / £31)
- Tickets start at $132 in the lower level (€115 / £99)
Entry to The Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum including a tour of RCA Studio B costs $55 / €48 / £41 per adult. Entry to the Ryman Auditorium start from $37 / €32 / £27.55 per adult
Entry to National Museum of African American Music costs $34 / €29 / £26 per adult. Entry to Musicians Hall of Fame and Museum costs $28 / €25 / £21 per adult. Entry to the Frist Art Museum costs $28 / €25 / £21 per adult (Guests 18 and under are always FREE)
