With hundreds of islands, it can be slightly overwhelming to know which of the picturesque Greek paradises to spend your precious annual leave at. However, after spending a week on the calm, sunny and car-free island of Hydra, it’s safe to say it’s at the top of my list of recommendations. The small island is located less than an hour away by ferry from the city of Athens. Spend a night in the city and soak up the lively atmosphere before heading over for a week of true relaxation in Hydra.
The island was beloved by Leonard Cohen, and recently featured in an episode of Prime Video’s Daisy Jones and the Six. But despite its fame, the vibe is lowkey and relaxed. Cars aren’t allowed so everyone travels by foot, boat or donkey. The town itself is easily walkable, and you can see it all within a day, which leaves plenty of time for the highlight – the beaches.
Dotted around the island are a number of gorgeous coves, mainly rocky, that took my breath away on multiple occasions. There are so many, you’ll want to spend a good week on the island hopping from place to place, picnic and books in tote bags, ready to spend afternoons swimming in the crystal clear sea followed by Spritzes and games of Uno. And when the day is over, make sure to pay attention to the unreal sunsets as you get ready for a chilled out dinner in the marina.
Ready to plan a week in Hydra? Here’s everything you need to know about the Greek oasis.
Where to stay in Hydra
Hotel Miranda
One of the biggest reasons I love Hydra is how the buildings have been maintained, with many restrictions stopping the development of big hotels taking over. Instead, hotels are boutique and intimate, like the Hotel Miranda where we stayed.
It’s located just a minute’s walk up a side street from the main port, and was originally a sea captain’s mansion built in 1810. There are just 14 rooms in the hotel, some with balconies looking out to sea, and others with garden views.
The small number of rooms and relaxed nature of the hotel makes it feel like you’re staying at the house of a great family friend. And this in part is due to the fact the hotel is run by Miranda – hence the hotel’s name – and her lovely family.
Breakfast is served each morning in the hotel’s courtyard, surrounded by lemon, orange and jasmine trees, where you can tuck into freshly made pastries and local jam, while chatting away with other guests. Simply heavenly.
Over the years it’s played host to a number of artists and exhibitions, and this is reflected in the walls of the hotel, which are decorated in a very classical style but with all the modern facilities you could want.
Book your stay at Miranda Hotel here
What to do in Hydra
Beach hopping
Hydra is the island to come to if all you want to do is relax on the beach, catch-up on your reading list and swim in crystal blue waters. However, knowing which beach to go to is crucial. Many of them are accessible by water-taxi only, so you do need to slightly plan ahead – however the ones I’ve listed below are all accessible on foot. The journeys to them are so picturesque, it makes the stroll all the more enjoyable.
Spilla beach
Located less than a five minute walk from the centre, the Spilla beach is less of a beach and more of a series of plinths to rest and dive in from. It’s set between two beach bars – the Hydronetta and Spilla beach bar – which are built into the rocks. It’s the sort of place you go for a proper swim and then get out for a much needed Aperol.
Avlaki beach
This is just a 10 minute walk from the port and is located down a long set of steps. It’s a very small beach with crystal clear blue water. It’s a spot for a morning swim, where it’s pretty much deserted, and then heading back for breakfast. There are no toilets or facilities, just two ledges to rest on. However there is a very nice restaurant, Téchne, at the top, which is open for lunch and dinner.
Kamini
If you’re looking for a beach to spend the whole day on then I’d head to Kamini. It’s about a 20 to 25 minute walk from the port, or you can get a water taxi. You can either lay a towel out on the beach for free or there are a few rows of sun beds and umbrellas you can rent for the day. They’re part of the Castillo restaurant, which is truly stunning,and you can either eat in the restaurant, or order to your sunbed. We ended up taking sandwiches with us and ordering rosé while playing Uno all afternoon. Honestly, it doesn’t get better than that.
Mandraki
Located to the right side of the port, this is either a five minute water taxi or 20 minute walk. There are two beaches, one that belongs to the Mandraki Hotel where prices for the sunbed a day are pretty spenny, or there’s the public beach which has sun beds at a more affordable rate, restaurants, toilets and a beach bar. There’s a number of yachts docked around this beach which makes for some great people watching.
To note: apart from the beach at the Mandraki Hotel, the rest of the beaches on the island are made up of stones and not sand, so while not essential, next time I’d definitely bring a pair of water shoes.
Take a boat trip
While you can get a water taxi to one place, there are also plenty of boat tours that will arrange to take you to many of the best beaches on the island in one day. Ideal if you’re only there for a long weekend and want to pack as much in as possible.
Horse riding
If you need a bit more activity in your day, then start the morning off with a horse ride. Harriet’s Hydra Horses company leads group riding treks across hydra, visiting monasteries and beaches dotted across the island. She keeps the groups small and every trek is personalised to that group.
Explore the main town
Hydra is a small island with a small main town, but it’s still packed with plenty to keep you entertained. As well as the shops lining the main port, there’s also a number of galleries, the Hydra museum, and Leonard Cohen’s house (you can’t go into his old house but you can walk past and take pictures) to keep you busy.
Where to eat in Hydra
Ostria Restaurant
A classic no frills Greek taverna which easily had some of the best food we ate on the island. It’s all about the salads, fresh fish and peppers stuffed with feta, and it’s located in the most gorgeous square with live music playing.
Kafeneio Hydra
In the same square is Kafeneio, which is a more modern and elevated take on classic Greek dishes. It kind of felt like if you picked up an east London restaurant and dropped it onto a Greek island.
Psaropoula
This seafood restaurant elevated above the port is the best place to go for good food and unmatched views in the evening. While they specialise in seafood (order the king prawn linguine – you won’t be disappointed), they also do plenty of Greek classics.
Kai Kremmidi
You can’t really leave Greece without having gyros, and this was our favourite place on the island to get them. The gyros are super fresh, have a variety of toppings available and the come in very large portions.
Where to drink in Hydra
Amalour
There are plenty of places to drink along the main port, however our favourite place for cocktails was at Amalour. It’s set in a lively square and looks out on a number of bustling restaurants. They do an unreal margarita and from around 11, you can start dancing until the early hours.
Hydra isn’t the island to come to if you want to go out partying every night – Amalour and Red Club are the only two venues to play late nice music. Amalour is perfect if you just want to let you hair down for one night while you’re there.
L’Americano
For more low key and intimate evening drinks head to the L’Americano. It’s just down the road from the Miranda Hotel and does an incredible cocktail menu. With relaxed jazz music playing you could easily spend a few hours here. Oh and be sure to try the spicy white negroni.
How to get to Hydra
The best (and basically only) way to get to Hydra is to fly into Athens and from there take an hour and a half ferry from the port, which you should book ahead.
Senior Entertainment and Lifestyle Writer
Lydia Venn is Cosmopolitan UK’s Senior Entertainment and Lifestyle Writer. She covers everything from , to the latest celebrity news. She also writes across our work/life section regularly creating , covering exciting new releases and sharing the latest must-haves. In her role she’s interviewed everyone from Margot Robbie to Niall Horan, and her work has appeared on an episode of . After completing a degree in English at the University of Exeter, Lydia moved into journalism, writing for the , before working as Features Editor at , where she spoke on BBC Radio 4’s Woman’s Hour and Talk Radio. She has an encyclopedic knowledge of Gilmore Girls and 00s teen movies, and in her free time can be found with a margarita in hand watching the Real Housewives on repeat. Find her on .
