The largest of the Ionian islands, Kefalonia is a kaleidoscope of colour: pink bougainvillea drapes over pastel-painted houses, thick green firs cover rolling mountains and the coast is bordered by bright blue sea.
It’s no wonder Louis de Bernières chose it as the setting for his novel, “Captain Corelli’s Mandolin”. The island’s character and history can be felt in every corner, whether you’re exploring the ancient monasteries perched above olive groves or swimming in the turquoise coves of Myrtos Beach.
Where to stay in Kefalonia
Eliamos Villas Hotel & Spa is described by its general manager as a “home away from home”, which would be true if your home had a private pool and stunning views of the Ionian Sea. Built on a hillside on the south coast, the family-owned resort comprises 12 villas surrounded by beautiful gardens filled with roses and lavender. Each villa has its own terrace and seawater infinity pool, where you can swim beneath the stars or catch an early sunrise accompanied by birdsong and a distant rooster.
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The villas were designed by Maike Gruna, founder of London-based design firm Maike Gruna Interiors, who owns the hotel with her husband, Spyro Korsianos. Earthy palettes are teamed with rattan furniture, seagrass cushions and teak tables. The high wooden ceilings add to the spacious feel. Villas include dining spaces, a living area and kitchen, with all the mod cons.
Inside a two-bedroom villa at Eliamos Villas Hotel & Spa
(Image credit: Eliamos Villas Hotel & Spa)
As a Relais & Châteaux member with two Michelin keys, Eliamos is rubber-stamped as a five-star boutique hotel with luxury amenities. Guests can relax with in-villa spa treatments, visit the outdoor gym for a pre-breakfast Pilates class or take a swim in the larger shared infinity pool. But it is the family feel and charming staff that will make you want to return.
Eating and drinking
At the centre of Eliamos is its restaurant, Olais, where food is served on an open veranda looking out over the sea. It’s surrounded by olive trees and a herb garden used by the chefs. The menu offers Kefalonian and Greek dishes with a twist, from octopus and sea bream to fresh salads and tomato fritters. The signature cocktails are not to be missed, either. The Domenica, with spiced rum, green apple liqueur and cinnamon, was a firm favourite, and you’ll want to try the Robola wine, made from Kefalonia’s homegrown white grapes.
Chef Sokratis Malinganis hosts a number of “culinary encounters” for guests on the restaurant’s outdoor patio, from barbecue nights and 10-course feasts to cooking classes, where guests can learn traditional Greek cooking methods before sitting down to eat their creations.
Chef Sokratis Malinganis hosts a cookery class
(Image credit: Hollie Clemence)
Things to do in Kefalonia
You can’t visit Kefalonia without dipping in its insanely blue sea. De Bernières wrote that it was “easier to see through than the air of any place” and he wasn’t taking creative liberties. Myrtos Beach is one of the most famous spots, where the road zigzags down a high cliff to the soft white sand. If you head that way, stop off at Myrtillo at Divarata junction for brunch or snacks en route.
The capital Argostoli is the largest town on the island, offering boutiques and cafes. De Bosset Bridge, the longest stone sea-crossing in Europe, divides the port area from Koutavos lagoon, home to loggerhead sea turtles.
For charming villages on the water, head to Fiskardo or Assos. While most of the island’s buildings were destroyed in the earthquake of 1953, Fiskardo’s Venetian-style homes were spared. The pretty harbour is an ideal spot for lunch or drinks. Perched on a narrow strip of land with sea on either side, the picturesque village of Assos is also a must-see. From here, you can climb up to see the ruins of Assos castle, one of the largest in Greece.
(Image credit: Hollie Clemence)
For more adventures, set off on a scenic hike through Mount Ainos National Park or take a boat ride through Melissani Cave. Discovered in 1951, its underground lake has crystal-clear water beneath a collapsed cave roof. Further afield, the neighbouring island of Ithaki – the mythical home of Odysseus – is just a 25-minute ferry ride away.
Take a boat ride through Melissani Cave
(Image credit: ecstk22 / Shutterstock)
The verdict
For dramatic landscapes, rich cultural history and unusual natural phenomena, you can’t go wrong with Kefalonia. It’s a colourful island in every sense.
