In a northern Greek village, amidst swirling incense and rhythmic music, a group of men and women prepare for a daring ritual. On May 21, during the Orthodox feast of Saint Constantine and Saint Helena, they remove their shoes and step barefoot onto glowing embers as part of the century-old “Anastenaria” tradition. Practiced in four villages in Greece’s Macedonia region near Bulgaria, this fire-walking ceremony draws crowds eager to witness its mystique.
Once deemed a pagan tribute to the Greek gods Dionysus and Artemis, the ritual was banned by the Greek Orthodox Church but has since been tolerated. Despite its openness, the practice remains enigmatic. “Fire walkers don’t talk much about it,” said 86-year-old Sotiris Tzivelis from Agia Eleni, near Serres. He recalls how villagers once summoned “anastenarides” to heal the sick, using blessed handkerchiefs in the ritual.
The ceremony begins in the “konaki,” a room adorned with Orthodox icons, where participants dance to lyre and drum music. Led by Babis Theodorakis, they receive a sacred handkerchief before heading to a meadow, where they circle and walk across glowing embers. “I’ve never walked, but I give our family’s handkerchief to the dancers and retrieve it after,” Tzivelis shared.
Rooted in Greek communities from Kosti and Brodivo in Bulgaria, the tradition migrated to Greece in the early 20th century after the Ottoman Empire’s collapse. “I can’t explain how we walk without burning,” Theodorakis admitted. Apostolis Vlaspos, a 65-year-old participant with 20 years of experience, described an “indescribable force” and recalled seeing Saint Constantine’s image during his first walk, feeling an electric surge.
Participants circle the embers three times, clutching icons, before crossing them while swaying to music. Afterward, visitors inspect their unburned feet, seen by believers as proof of a miracle. The event ends with a communal meal of mutton. “It’s not a trance,” said 67-year-old Kostas Liouros. “It’s natural, requiring mental peace and focus.” Another participant dismissed rumors of alcohol or herbal aids, insisting the act is authentic.
The Anastenaria remains a captivating blend of faith, tradition, and mystery, drawing spectators to witness its enduring power.
