Letter from Athens
It was 9 pm on a Saturday evening at one of the small squares in the lively Kypseli neighborhood in Athens. The aroma of grilled meat wafted out from the Rigani tavern. In this working-class area in the north of the Greek capital, customers gathered to enjoy, either around a table or to go, the classic Greek street food: souvlaki.
In Athens, it is served with tomatoes, onions and tzatziki, while in Thessaloniki, further north, mustard or ketchup is added. The core of the recipe, however, remains the same: grilled meat, usually pork or chicken, cooked on a skewer (kalamaki) or as a gyros, a technique using a vertical rotisserie, all wrapped in thick pita bread. This small sandwich is sold for between €3.50 and €4.50 in the Athens area, making it accessible for all budgets in a country where purchasing power is one of the lowest in the European Union.
“It’s our little family weekend treat,” said Angeliki Gianeas, seated with her husband, two daughters and some other family members on the terrace of Rigani. About once a month, Angeliki and her family visit one of the local souvlatzidiko. “And almost every Friday, we order it at home to eat together, on the balcony or in front of the TV,” the 40-year-old recounted before resuming her gyros pita.
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