I fell in love with the ‘Caribbean of Greece’ — but this island has a tragic past

(L) A woman stands on a ledge over the sea and (R) a view of a beach with blue ocean and white sand, with a limestone cliff in the right corner — Lefkada is Greece’s best-kept secret; go, but keep it to yourself (Picture: Metro)

Shattered by grief, Sappho leapt from the cliff to certain death over the unrequited love of a beautiful young sailor.

So goes the legend of the ancient lesbian poet of Lefkada, a ‘hidden gem’ island off the west coast of Greece. Nicknamed the ‘Greek Caribbean’ for its iridescent ocean and superstar beaches, Lefkada’s mythic past tells of tragic figures throughout the ages who threw themselves from the rugged heights to the depths of the sea.

These tales have been rejected by historians, but their romantic allure still adds mystique to the lush green hills and lunar white sands that make Lefkada the most unique – and perhaps most unspoiled – of the seven jewels known as the Ionian islands.

Blissfully untouched by commercialisation, Lefkada is a quiet slice of paradise that remains under the radar for British tourists. I fell for its charm three summers ago, wandering past whitewashed villas with sky-blue rooves to the shore of Agios Nikitas, a tiny fishing village where the water has an otherworldly quality. Bombshell beaches like Kathisma and Egremini on the island’s west coast are virtually empty during the shoulder seasons — I’ve returned to Lefkada in the quieter months of March and September, and loved it just the same. And if the latest travel trends are anything to go by, I could soon have more company.

A map of Greece with an inset showing Lefkada, one of the western Ionian islands — Lefkada is one of the untouched gems of the Ionian islands, 4.5 hours drive from Athens

In September, Greece announced plans to impose a €20 levy on cruise ship visitors to the islands of Santorini and Mykonos during peak summer season, in a bid to avert overtourism. As rules like these sweep Europe’s traditional hotspots, the popularity of lesser-known destinations like Lefkada – or Lefkas, as the Greeks call it – is only going to soar.

Getting to Lefkada: A unique journey

Lefkada is the only Greek island you can reach by car. Flanked by olive trees and willowy cypresses, a half-hour drive takes you off the mainland via a causeway from Preveza airport, which is served daily by budget airlines including Ryanair and easyJet from April to October.

During winter months, the easiest route is to fly direct to Athens, then take a €40 bus to the island which takes between four and five hours.

A woman stands on a ledge over blue ocean with boats in the background — I fell in love with Lefkada three summers ago; the island remains blissfully untouched and under the radar for British tourists (Picture: Metro)

A beach with blue ocean to the left side — Lefkada’s superstar beaches are flanked by majestic limestone cliffs (Picture: Metro)

Jet2 recently announced plans to launch direct flights from Newcastle to Preveza in 2026, a sure sign that Lefkada is a destination to watch.

Lefkada is small — at just 35km long, it takes about 2.5 hours to drive the perimeter on well-paved roads with decent signage. Sleepy traditional villages break up the journey, a sort of ‘land that time forgot’ where locals spend hours sipping strong coffee on the veranda.

Bakeries here are unfettered by tourist prices, with authentic pastries such as spanokopita (spinach and feta pie) and kourabiedes (Greek butter cookies) for less than €2.

Even better value are Lefkada’s off-beat tavernas, which serve moreish plates of saganaki (fried cheese with honey), calamari, mussels and grilled octopus with glasses of chilled red wine for as little as €16 a head.