Walking by the lake, visits to archaeological sites, or taking a winery tour? We plan one-day excursions from Athens and combine them with good food. We do not need to travel far to have a good time! There are several ouzeries, tavernas, and restaurants close to Athens that can serve as destinations for excursions and getaways.
Osteria Greca
Osteria Greca, located inside the Papargyriou Estate winery, has been open for several years. The menu, created by Kefalonian chef Giorgos Antonellos, features dishes made with local ingredients that are influenced by both the region and the chef’s place of origin. Highlights of the winter menu, which will soon change to adapt to the season and available springtime ingredients, include the Ionian bitter orange salad with various citrus fruits and Greek burrata; dry Mavrodaphne wine risotto with apple compote, hazelnuts, and gremolata with mustard greens from their garden; tender lamb hunkar begendi; and porchetta with fresh herbs and fennel. As the weather warms up, the new spring menu will be served in the outdoor area, which offers lovely views of the vineyard.
Of course, the wine is from the winery’s collection and at a discounted price. Among others, it’s worth trying their classic Moschofilero and Assyrtiko blend, the Unique Mavrostyfo made from the extremely rare Mavrostyfo grape variety, and for dessert, the aromatic Late Harvest made from overripe mountain grapes of the aromatic Moschato Rio variety grown in Sofiana. The restaurant also serves a large selection of imported wines and a small selection of Greek wines from other producers. It is open on Fridays (20:00-23:30), Saturdays (13:00-17:00 and 20:00-23:30), and Sundays (13:30-18:00). Reservations are required due to the limited number of tables. A visit to the winery and vineyard before or after the meal is also recommended.
Lalioti, Corinthia, Kiato, Tel. (+30) 694.451.1107
Kavos, Corinthia
Corinthia, only an hour’s drive from Athens, is an excellent getaway. I enjoy going to Lake Stymphalia for walks, bird watching, and relaxing in nature. Because I always work up an appetite after my walk, I look for a table at a nearby tavern. I recently went to the fish taverna Kavos. It is well-kept and tastefully decorated, primarily with wood. Outside, there are pergolas that are enclosed with glass for the winter and tables that overlook the Megara Gulf. There is no music playing, so everyone speaks quietly, creating a peaceful atmosphere.
You order the appetizers from the waiter. We had radishes with plenty of olive oil, a tasty seabass ceviche, and delicious homemade taramosalata, which was ideal for dipping with farmhouse bread. We ordered the remaining items from the kitchen after they showed us what was available, weighed it, and recommended the appropriate quantities. The squid was extremely fresh, having been caught that morning and carefully fried, to the point where it resembled tempura. The chef specializes in crawfish pasta with seashells and linguine cooked in a special lemon sauce. The well-curated wine list, featuring selections from local winemakers, rounded out the experience.
Isthmia, Corinthia, Tel. (+30) 27410.379.06
Stavros, Elefsina
There are numerous reasons to visit Elefsina, including the archaeological site and Vlycha, with its decommissioned ships and eerie atmosphere. After all, the city of ancient mysteries is only a half-hour away from Athens. It’s also an opportunity to visit Stavros for a meal. Every day, locals and visitors gather on the balcony of this authentic fish taverna, which overlooks the harbor. The menu includes traditional Greek fish taverna dishes such as hand-cut fries, crispy fried eggplant, marinated fried mussels, and grilled sardines. They usually serve excellent kopanisti cheese, which goes well with tsipouro.
Kanellopoulou & 1 Miaouli, Elefsina Beach, Tel. (+30) 210.556.1107
Antigoni, Thimari
A walk to the sea is always a good idea, regardless of whether the weather is suitable for swimming. We enjoy having a snack while watching the waves from above at one of our favorite beachside tavernas, Antigoni near Thimari. The gravel-paved courtyard with whitewashed mulberry trees is quite charming. Things get even more interesting when the dishes start coming out of the kitchen.
We recommend trying the homemade tiganopsomo (stuffed fried bread), light fried zucchini, and thinly sliced lamb chops. However, their seafood is also excellent, particularly the fried red mullet, which is one of their specialty dishes. All of this is accompanied by light folk music from a bygone era playing softly from the speakers.
Makrodimitraion, Thimari, Τel. (+30) 22910.375.03
Gavrilis Taverna, Kouvaras
Did you know you could see live alpacas in Athens? Aside from horseback riding lessons, the Kouvaras Equestrian Club has a public farm with equines such as donkeys and ponies, as well as camels, llamas, and alpacas. Gavrilis stands out among the many tavernas in the picturesque village of Kouvaras, which lies between Keratea and Kalivia. If the weather is nice, sit in the well-kept courtyard; otherwise, grab a table in the welcoming dining room.
This taverna is a local favorite for its flavors, particularly its charcoal-grilled and roasted dishes, which include lamb chops, veal chops, various steaks, beef patties, and homemade sausages. Souvlaki and kokoretsi are also popular, with connoisseurs preferring the sautéed lamb liver with oregano and oil. The tzatziki and spicy cheese spread are homemade, while the feta is locally sourced.
47 Aghiou Dimitriou, Kouvarias, Τel. (+30) 22990.690.92
Kouvaras Equestrian Club Artemida, Τel. (+30) 698.033.3555
Le Souk and Eubous, Halkida
Theodore Bitsios and Elsa Karamouzi’s elegant restaurant has quickly become the gastronomic hub of Halkida. With Italian influences and high-quality ingredients, they offer the best vitello tonnato, authentic 72-hour matured pinsa, risotto, pasta, special meat cuts, and creative salads. At the end, we had what is considered the best tiramisu in Central Greece, as well as homemade ice cream that is about to be launched internationally. The impressive wine list, which includes both Greek and international labels, and bartender Dimitris’ unique cocktails complete the picture. What more could you ask for?
The other option is meat dishes next to the wild waters of the Euripus! Eubous is located on the mainland side of Halkida, opposite the railway station and next to the old bridge, right on the water. It’s wonderful to see commercial and private boats pass in front of you at night, when the bridge opens and Evia becomes an island again. We come here for meat that has been properly matured, cut, and grilled. But if you come across the goat pasta dish, do not pass it up. Nor should you pass up the salads, fries, dolmadakia, or pretty much anything else on the menu. A side note: the courteous waiters always mention the price of the daily specials menu, which I believe is honest and rather rare.
Εubous, 1 Archiepiskopou Makariou, Halkida, Τel. (+30) 22210.378.77
Le Souk, 10 Ermou, Halkida, Τel. (+30) 697.800.8832
Skotadis, Aegina
Aegina is lovely this time of year. It’s only a short distance from Athens, making it an ideal day trip. Drive around its beautiful countryside and stop by the Temple of Aphaia, built in the early 5th century BC on the site of an earlier temple. According to Pausanias, it was dedicated to Aphaia or Vritomartis, the daughter of Zeus, who fell into the sea to escape King Minos of Crete before being rescued by fishermen and brought to Aegina.
The fishermen of Aegina have been very famous ever since! Return to walk around the lovely town of Aegina, before ending up at Skotadis, Giorgos Lykouris’ ouzeri-seafood restaurant that feels like a traditional Greek café. Skotadis is reason enough to visit the island. It has often disappointed spoiled customers who ask for spawn or octopus in August. They only serve fresh, seasonal ingredients and know how to prepare them properly. Mullet is in season this time of year – tartare, fried, or raw with tagliatelle cooked in crab broth – but you can also try red mullet, codfish with garlic sauce (fried with flour, not batter), angler fricassee (no egg), shrimps from the Saronic Gulf in a spicy saganaki sauce, and stewed octopus with smoked fava bean puree. They also make excellent pasta dishes, such as shrimp pasta and a delicious orzo with prawns.
46 Dimokratias, Aegina, Tel. (+30) 22970.240.14
Kakias, Salamina
Take the ferry from Perama to Salamina, and in fifteen minutes you’ll be sitting in front of a line of moored fishing boats, sipping glasses of ouzo and munching on sardines marinated in vinegar. Half of the tables at Salamina’s most well-known fish taverna, Kakias, are on the quay. There are plenty of tables inside the restaurant too, but the well-trained staff can handle the weekend crowds (reservations are required). Waiters cross the street with trays full of shellfish (cockles, mussels, clams, etc.), homemade pasta, taramosalata, grilled octopus, and crispy red mullets, or they stop by the tables to cut the beautifully prepared grilled squid, or to fillet the fish.
The menu includes a variety of options, from raw and salted to fried and grilled, as well as risotto and pasta. You’ll also find a good selection of ouzo and tsipouro, including some aged options for the finish (the psimeni, roasted, raki at the end is on the house). When planning a day trip, consider combining your seafood feast with a trip to the Mycenaean acropolis at Kanakia or a drive to the white, two-story home of Angelos Sikelianos, which is located on the beach at Moni Faneromeni, opposite the stone monastery.
33 Akti Karaiskaki, Salamina, Tel. (+30) 210.465.5821
Psarou, Lavrio
The archaeological site of Thorikos, which contains one of the oldest ancient theatres and is located opposite the entrance to the town of Lavrio, eloquently demonstrates the daily life of the residents around 500 BC. If you have time, visit the Archaeological Museum, which houses an important collection of jewelry and mining tools.
Taramosalata, smoked eggplant salad, cod pastirma, fava, and other familiar delights are served on a platter at Psarou, located behind the Town Hall and only a few meters from the sea. There are several shrimp dishes, including ceviche, giouvetsi (oven-baked orzo), and saganaki, as well as seafood pasta and fish – small fried and larger grilled. On the way back, it’s always worth stopping by the Temple of Poseidon in Sounio to commemorate Icarus’ fateful flight.
Kanari Square, Tel. (+30) 22921.590.03
This article first appeared in Greece Is (www.greece-is.com), a Kathimerini publishing initiative.
