Santorini is famous for its caldera sunsets, romantic ambiance, and throngs of tourists. Mykonos earns its party-forward reputation with beach clubs and nightlife. In-the-know foodies flock to Sifnos. Milos calls out to adventure lovers. Paros proves that a place can be peaceful and cosmopolitan at the same time.
Compared to its Cycladic neighbors, Folegandros rarely appears in Greek island-hopping itineraries. Framed by turquoise waters and dramatic cliffs, the tiny island feels like an untouched gem with an off-the-beaten-path appeal. Goats roam the arid, undeveloped hillsides. The beaches are wonderfully devoid of sun loungers and blaring music. And the idyllic Chora looks much like it always has with stone-paved lanes, tree-shade squares, and traditional Cycladic architecture. Folegandros begs the question, “is heaven a place in Greece?” Ask the locals and visitors (myself included) and you’ll be met with a resounding yes.
Admittedly, Folegandros isn’t the easiest island to reach. Most travelers coming from the United States will connect through Athens, fly into Santorini, and then board a 50-minute Seajets ferry. You can also charter a private boat from nearby islands such as Ios, Siknos, and Paros — but, of course, that’s going to be much more expensive. Rather arrive by air? Book a helicopter through hoper, which operates scheduled helicopter flights to various Agean destinations, including Folegandros.
So if you’re already mapping out your travel plan for 2025, make sure this island is on your itinerary — before everyone else catches on. Scroll on to plan the perfect escape to Folegandros.
Where To Stay
When most people think of the Cyclades, they typically envision white-washed cubiform architecture and Aegean Sea views. That’s exactly what you get at Anemomilos, a family-run boutique hotel right on the edge of Chora. The vistas from the pool and flower-clad restaurant are nothing short of spectacular. The atmosphere exudes warmth, just like the island itself.
At the end of an unpaved road that winds through dusty hillsides, Gundari appears like a stone mirage before the world drops off. Built atop a dramatic cliff in a wild rugged corner of the island, the brand-new five-star retreat is a literal edge-of-the-earth escape that’s remote and refined — ideal for holiday-goers who prefer to relax by their private pool and indulge in blissful massages at the spa.
Minutes on foot from the port, ANEMI Hotel & Spa is well positioned for travelers arriving via ferry. The rooms are comfortable and many have terraces facing the sea for unwinding with a glass of Assyrtiko after day lounging by the pool that’s dotted with striped sun loungers and yellow umbrellas.
What To Do
The heart of Folegandros, the pretty-as-a-picture main town is an endlessly charming maze of stone-paved streets. It’s home to most of the shops, bars, and restaurants on the island as well as the Castro, a photogenic medieval settlement that’s impeccably preserved and where people still live to this day. It’s pleasant to stroll around without an itinerary and stop for photo ops whenever the mood strikes. Want to dress the part? Pick up crisp linens from Kalliopi and resort wear from Malama Treasures. Head to Youpi Folegandros to pick up some housemade local products — including traditional Greek spoon sweets called glyka tou koutaliou and infused extra virgin olive oil — to bring back home or enjoy on the trip.
The most recognizable landmark on Folegandros, the Church of Panagia (Virgin Mary) looms high above Chora. It’s a hike to reach, but visitors willing to slog up the zigzag path are rewarded with an eyeful of incredible architecture and sweeping views. It’s particularly lovely at sunset when the heat dies down and the sky turns a creamsicle hue.
Folegandros has quite a few beautiful beaches. Some like Agali Beach, which boasts clear waters and craggy surroundings, are easily accessible. Others, such as Katergo Beach, require a bit more legwork or a boat to reach.
Given its hilly, undeveloped terrain, Folegandros attracts hikers who amble up rugged pathways and trek to the more isolated beaches. For a different perspective that doesn’t necessitate so much physical excursion, book a sightseeing boat tour around the island to explore sea caves and swim in crystalline bays.
Where To Eat & Drink
There are many wonderful cafés, restaurants, and bars in Chora. Start the day with a cappuccino, fresh orange juice, and breakfast cake with Greek yogurt in the secret garden at Pounta. Kanela Coffee & Bakery is a lovely spot to pause for an espresso and a piece of kalasouna, a traditional Greek pie made with phyllo dough and souroto cheese.
Snag a reservation at Chic Restaurant to savor Greek salad, homemade manoura cheese, and pork souvlaki. Seafood fans will love the crispy calamari, decadent yet light lobster pasta, and grilled fresh catch of the day at To Barbounaki. After dinner, grab a scoop of homemade gelato from Parasagas. Fancy a nightcap? Amble over to Beez Cocktail Bar.
Of course, the restaurants aren’t entirely limited to the main hub. You’ll find some great places to eat around Agli Beach, including Pasithea Folegandros. Steps from the port, Dal Capo serves excellent calamari and deceptively simple, super tasty fried eggs with crispy potatoes. It’s worth the somewhat precarious drive to Ano Meria to dig into a plate of traditional matsata pasta and meatballs from Irini’s Tavern and Grocery.
If ever there was a venue for a long, leisurely lunch that stretches on for hours, it’s Papalagi. Holiday goers still wet from swimming in Agios Nikolaos ascend the rocky stairs to the hilltop restaurant, where gorgeous vistas and delicious food await.
