A few decades in as a food reviewer here at the Yorkshire Post, I think I have covered pretty much most of the county.
Yet, strangely, I have never reviewed anywhere in Armley, a suburb of Leeds possibly less recognised for its eateries than the dark, broody Victorian Gaol, which sits threateningly on the skyline down Armley Road.
I say strange because I am an Armley lass, born and raised there, with family in the area.
I think of my lovely late mum who, if she were reading this piece, would stress, “You come from Upper Armley, not near the prison,” which, as kids, always made us laugh.
She was adamant about which bit we lived in, but frankly, we didn’t care and still don’t.
So, there I was on a Saturday afternoon, parking my car on Armley Road, close to where my grandad had worked for a while after his retirement from his long career at Burton’s, and I think fondly about the times I would meet him from work.
As I climbed out of the car, I noticed this once-busy road and the primary access to the city before the gyratory was built, looked quite forlorn.
The Victorian mills have mostly been demolished, and the engineering works have gone, but as I look towards the nearby prison, I see that it is not going anywhere soon.
I am here to visit Galleria, at the city end of the road, an 18-minute walk from the station. As I walk to it, I am struck by the subtle differences the nearer I get.
There is a change in the air here; perhaps this is the newest Leeds area ripe for gentrification, hence all the cranes poised on the wastelands of the former mills.
When I reached it, I found Galleria though, to be a bright, welcoming building adorned with lights, signage, and large windows, which was unsurprising as this once was a tile warehouse and showroom.
Galleria is the new eatery and bar of Project House next door, a new, on-the-scene, 1,000-capacity arts, culture, and music venue that opened last year and is making quite a name for itself.
These two are a collaboration of several well-known Leeds groups, including Belgrave Music Hall, the Welcome skate store, Brudenell Social Club, and Super Friendz.
Here at Galleria, you will find so much on offer, from pre-gig snacks and drinks on event nights to Bottomless Thursdays every week, breakfast, brunch, lunch, and dinner. Walk-ins are welcome, but it is a good idea to book. I’m glad I did; it is bustling on a Saturday afternoon.
A wood-fired grill restaurant is their marketing, and I can see why, as dominating this large space is the open kitchen and rather glorious oven in full flame.
Galleria is an industrial space, boldy paying testament to its past, but is not as harsh or unwelcoming as that may sound. The place is dotted with artwork, books, and posters.
There’s an imposing, heavily laden bar with a delicious range of carefully curated wines, cocktails, etc., though it’s not for me as I am driving. Tables of all sizes are spread across the room, plus there are cosy corners with sofas and low tables if hanging out with your laptop for lunch is your thing.
Galleria is also an accessible space, and feel free to bring the kids as there’s an impressive menu just for them. Everyone is welcome (including the family dog), which creates a lovely vibe.
I am meeting my niece Toni here, and she is already comfortably settled in when I get there. She knows without hesitation what she wants to eat. Unsurprisingly, it is one of their homemade, wood-fired Greek flatbreads.
These are all handcrafted in-house in the traditional way of a long, slow two-stage ferment, which creates a light but gloriously chewy bread with the added smoky undertones from the fire. Understandably, they play quite a part in the menu.
I would happily munch away at these breads even without the promise of all the delicious-sounding toppings. And the menu here is far, far more than the flatbreads, from steak and eggs, Huevos Rancheros, croissants, cakes, pies and puddings, you will not be disappointed.
So, Toni ordered the Croque Madame, a three-cheese, bacon, and fried egg confection. I head to the Turkish eggs. We passed on a smoked chicken Caesar, meatballs, Reuben and an Aubergine Parmesan.
On a less carbohydrate binge and with respect for our hearts, we also order a smoked trout salad bowl with soy and chilli glaze, pickled onion, carrot, red cabbage & avocado.
All of it was, as I suspected it might be, delicious.
The eggs are beautifully cooked, exactly as I love them all soft, runny yolk but not a drop of gloopy white, though it needed more Turkish spicing I felt, perhaps a hefty twist of Aleppo pepper?
The salad bowl was packed with fresh, tasty ingredients and plenty of trout and avocado. I didn’t get to taste Toni’s Croque Madam, but I assure you, it was delicious, judging by how much she enjoyed it.
We rounded off with a cup of Yorkshire Tea and a yummy slice of key lime pie for me and an equally excellent creme brulée with passion fruit for Toni.
Throughout lunch, we were not rushed or made to move; we had time to chat and enjoy everything.
Galleria has nailed it here, and if I have any slight reservations, it was the slow service, which was a little haphazard at times, though it seemingly moved at the same pace as the relaxed mood they have created here, so I am not complaining.
We had a lovely lunch over a few hours, and then it was back onto Armley Road. Toni wanted to know where I was parked; when I say further up the road, she insisted on walking with me to the car.
I reminded her laughingly that I am an Armley lass. I know how to take care of myself. Can’t wait to come back.
Galleria, Project House, Armley Rd, Leeds LS12 2DR Tel: 0113 821 4029
Kitchen Opening Times: Mon – Wed, 10am – 2pm, Thurs – Sat, 10am – 2pm & 5pm – 9pm, Sun, 10am – 2pm
