A road trip through northwest Greece | Travel


You don’t expect to see bullet holes in the floor of a museum. The ones I was squinting at were made in 1822, when the Ottoman sultan Mahmud II’s assassins gunned down Ali Pasha, the wily old despot of the empire’s eastern territories. He made his last stand in this monastery, Agios Panteleimon, in the Epirus region; it houses a museum crammed with sumptuous costumes, muskets, Yatagan knives, silverwork buckles and tobacco boxes — essential kit for a smartly turned-out Epirote warrior.

I was on a Greek island, but it’s one that doesn’t have a whole lot in common with Mykonos. It is inland, for starters, in the country’s north — on Lake Pamvotida — and is renowned, at least in Greece, as the country’s only inhabited…



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